do you guys add anything extra into your pinline resin? maybe cabosil? i am trying to not get that washy look when brushing it on.
It is funny you should ask the same question that I was going to ask. I left work at lunch today and tried out a bunch of different samples. The one that seemed to work the best was to use “old” sanding resin that was a little on the thick side. I then put in a drop of white and a lot of black. I kicked it extra hot. After it started to show signs of jel in the cup I pulled the tape and put it in the sun (used suncure with MEKP). After it cured hard I use some 150 sand paper folded over a razor blade and cleaned up the fuzzy edge. It seemed to work out well- so tonight I am going to try and do the whole board. There is a lot of info in the archives under resin pinlines. No more pen pinlines for me… I hope. DJ
I use gloss resin…I dont like it too thick…sometimes I actually thin it a bit with styrene.The main thing is to go around twice when painting.In other words paint around the board and then go over it again(same batch)its like glossing, pins need to be thick in order for the wax to rise.The pins will give the illusion of being transparent sometimes but when you pull the tape it will be fine.If you pull the tape after it kicks you get a hard edge that you can clean up with the sandpaper,razor trick.If you pull the tape when its wet you get a softer rolled edge.At least you can get em off if you make a mistake. R. Brucker
Cleanlines has it right. Also make sure that you don’t use too much color and that you don’t kick the resin too hot. Either of those can make the pin bleed when you shoot your clear. Especially with red. And, be sure to “seal” the tape before shooting the pin. That means pushing the edge of the tape down with a stir stick or something hard. That will keep resin from leaking under the tape and fraying your pin.
how hot do you kick the resin?
yeah, i screwed up a pinline the other day when i kicked the resin too hot. not enough time to pull the tape. it broke my heart after all that work. trial & error
For resin pinlines I use Reichold gloss resin.I find that Silmar is to slow to kick…but then it may just be me.I shoot pins pretty hot…say 15 minutes to jell.There is a factor in here that gets tricky…if you over catylize them they may bleed.Red and dark blue are the worst.Black and white are safe.As for pulling tape…don’t freak,you can pull it wet or let it jell to a “cheese” like hardness and pull the tape.When I do “back to back double pins I pull the outsides wet and pull the side where they meet when it is kicked.The side pulled when jelled gives a hard edge the you can clean up with the razor and sandpaper trick…you just take a razor blade and fold a small piece of say 120 grit sandpaper around it…it is like a mini sanding block that you can run around the edge of the pin to clean up fuzz.I like to do this before the pins get totally cured.I have 9’6” board somewhere in the archives that shows a closeup up these types of pins.Practice makes perfect. R.Brucker
The board I did with the “back to back” pins is in the resources…number 437. R. Brucker