so while shaping in the nose rocker for a recent board, the cord on my makita 9100B planer, which i was concerned about only 5 minutes before, ironically caught the blade and is now desecrated. can they be repaired? i’ve been seriously considering ordering a hitachi modified clark foam planer for a lot of reasons…
my quesiton is,
for shaping purposes is there a noticable difference other than depth control on the fly with the hitachi and/or is it just a better surfboard planer than standard planers?
i shall now construct a pulley system in my ‘baysment’
It is an easy fix.Get some electrical tape,cut it clean, and play match to match.Happens all the time in the trades.
A new cord is pretty easy too.A vacuum-planer set up with the cord going up the vacuum hose will make a word of difference.And it keeps the wife happy too,no foam snow in the house.I think unless you do it for a living most planers or a good sanding block with 40grit will do.Bosh makes a nice one.
currently the cord is stuck on the inside. i guess if i take it apart i’ll know the true damage.
right now i’m using a dust bag and it saves me soooo much clean up time and messiness but it gets in the way really bad as well. i havent been able to find an exhaust attachment for the makita.
-great highway, from the parking lot at wise. taken with my cell phone.
the same exact thing just happened to me about 2 weeks ago. the cord was wrapped around the blade, so i had to take the plate off and get the chord out. then i just simply stripped the ends of the 2 little wires on each end of the cord and used electrical tape to tape them back together. works just fine.
just removed the cord from the blade by removing the rotating disc cover thing and rotating the blade as far as i could manually and then pulling on the cord. i was able to get all the bits and pieces out by also going through the exhaust area. i spliced the cords very cleanly and matched them twice and wrapped with electrical tape.
i plugged the cord in after each match up try and was unsuccessful.
thoughts? [shoulder shrug]
thanks so far,
jeremy
p.s. it took me awhile to fall asleep last night…i was thinking about the hitachi. hehe.
Howzit JDM, Check the contacts where the wires connect to the switch. When the cord got caught it may have pulled the wires out or damaged them there. I suggest getting a new cord at the hardware store. One thing to remember when wiring is that the black (hot) wire attaches to the brass screw and the white ( neutral ) attaches to the silver screw and the ground to the green screw. Aloha,Kokua
Go to the hardware store. Buy a new plug (cord cap) and buy the same cord. Make sure that the terminal ends do not require a spade connection. All of the materials are available at a hardware store. You probably can get away with the materials for less than twenty dollars.
I would not recommend splicing the cord. In the U.S. splicing a cord is an OSHA violation. Plus it is a lot safer to have a nice new cord. Electricity can bite ya. Nothing to play with.
As an electrician I can say that wire nutting and taping your cord together is NOT a good idea. Do as the others recommend and get that cord replaced, and while your at it, why not make it a nice long one so you don’t have to mess with extension cords. If your breaker didn’t trip and you had a ground fault, you might want to have someone look at that as well.
In regard to portable tools and cord length. UL 45, the Standard for Portable Electric Tools, requires the cord length to be a minimum of 6 feet. There’s no requirement for the maximum length. So, manufacturer’s can build portable electric tools with cords of any length.
Make it long…Good idea / Might change out my planer cord too.
When you open up the case on your planer, you’ll probably find the OEM cord has a sleeve on it where it goes into the plastic - that sleeve’s reusable. Then I usually just go buy a 25’ 12 ga. extension cord & cut off the female end & strip about 2" off the outer orange insulation, and then 1/2" off each of the colored wires. Usually you can twist tight the strands of wire, bend them into a curve clockwise around the terminal screws, and tighten everything down - and yes, follow the advice about color-coded screws.
If you need to put contacts on, just match up the old ones to the little supply ones at your local hardware store and crimp the new ones on your stripped & twisted wires, but usually its just terminal screws inside a tool.
I also find that a 25’ orange cord is much harder to lose track of while working, then a 6’ black one
Edit: Although the OEM cord is probably only 14 or 16 ga. wire, its a lot shorter. Starving tools for juice shortens their life and can also lead to popped circuits or marred work - so with the longer cord, go up in wire size. You’ll be glad you did. Splices create a lot of resistance which also starves tools and can get hot.
