Hey Guys, i have a skil planer and i wanted to use this planer for my XPS/EPS shapes. But the planer doesnt work really good. The planer pull of to much of my material!
what is wrong with the planer?
I have changed the blades (the other side of the blade), is there antoher possibility to solve the problem?
Here are the results:
EPS:
XPS:
Mod:
Skil
Typ: 1500H1
Anschluß (Junction): 230V ~ 50 Hz / 1,8 A
Leistung (Power): 400 Watt
Drehzahl (raid per min): 15.000 U/min
Hobelbreite (planning width) : 82 mm
Hobeltiefe (depth) : 0 - 0,5 mm
Falztiefe (fold) : 0 - 14 mm
Assuming the blades are sharp, I'm thinking it could be a couple of things.
If you would, with blade depth at current setting, take a side view close-up shot of the bottom with blade rotated to deepest position with a straight edge along the bottom. Then a second shot with the blade rotated 180 degrees.
I'm thinking maybe you could be cutting at too deep of a setting, advancing the planer too quickly or perhaps even flipped the blades when they were reinstalled... with the bevel angle backwards? Did you use the blade jig to get both blades attached at the same depth?
Hi John, i thought also that iam cuting to deep, but the problem is at any position from 0,1-0,5.
I dont use a blade jig, but i have tryed a lot of different positions, everytime the same result.
I have some older pics here they are. If you need more pics just say it.
Greets
Hi -
My eyes aren't good enough to see which direction the bevels are facing. No zero depth straight edge side view shots but when replacing blades, it has been my experience that using a straight edge along the bottom whith depth adjustment at 'zero' is one way to make sure your blade depth is properly set. Most blades have a slot so they can be installed to compensate for sharpening. It is possible to be cutting deeper than the depth gauge indicates if they are not installed at zero depth.
Sharp blades set shallow with slow planer advance while cutting may be a solution but having an accurate zero depth setting and correct bevel orientation are equally important.
Hey John, i bought yesterday new blades, the blades are hard metal now. And what should i say, its gettin better. But what i dont understand, the baldes are 82mm and the socket ist just 80mm! is it normal?
i will try to buy a jig for my planer, i cant find the old one!
Hi - Not sure what you mean about 82mm and 80mm. Maybe they are blades for a different planer? Again, set depth adjustment to zero and place a straight edge along the base. The blades should not touch the straight edge as you spin them by hand.
i mean that my blades are 82mm long but the intake where you put the blade in ist just 80mm long. so the blade stands above 1mm on each side. Is it normal?
I will try to configure the planer tomorrow
Is it normal?
Hmm... not sure. Are they the original blades? If not, how did the original blades fit?
i dont know, because my father dont remeber if he has changed the blades! The old blades had these dimensions! i will try to find it out and config the blades! you will get an response:)
It is normal for blades to be a little wider than the (socket) cutter head. Blade adjustment is made by laying a straight edje along the foot of the planer and then adjusting the toe plate untill the foot and toe are touching the straight edge.(This is zero) Your knives should be adjusted so they just touch the straight edge. When you rotate the cutter head the knives should just nick the straight edge. If they do not touch the straight edge,when you plane the blades will tend to slide over the work and you will need to compensate by opening the toe adjustment and pushing down on the front of the planer to get a cut.This is not good! Take your time in getting the proper adjustment and you will get a clean cut!
Hey Guys, i have adjusted my knifes like as described and very diligent. What should i say, it works great! THX for all advices!!
Greetz Chris