I recently saw a Chicago Electric 3-1/4" planer( 110V, 5 amps, 1/10" depth of cut)on Harbor freight’s web page. It looks just like the Hitachi P20-SB that Clark sells, but it isn’t modified. The price on the Chicago Electric is 52.00 and the Clark goes for about 150.00. Does anybody know if the Chicago Electric would work for a beginning shaper or should I go for the modified one. What does Clark actually do to modify the planer. Thank You!! Adam
I recently saw a Chicago Electric 3-1/4" planer( 110V, 5 amps, > 1/10" depth of cut)on Harbor freight’s web page. It looks just like > the Hitachi P20-SB that Clark sells, but it isn’t modified. The price on > the Chicago Electric is 52.00 and the Clark goes for about 150.00. Does > anybody know if the Chicago Electric would work for a beginning shaper or > should I go for the modified one. What does Clark actually do to modify > the planer. Thank You!! Adam from another beginning shaper(@20 boards), i’m wishing i didn’t get the modified Clark Hitachi, i find the control knob feels wobbly and just doesn’t have the feel of a solid well made tool. the more experienced shapers will tell you the sooner you get the feel of it and gain control the better, and i’m sure that’s true…i still would be happier with one i could just set the depth on and go(unmodified), but thats just my novice opinion. let me know what you get and what you think.
from another beginning shaper(@20 boards), i’m wishing i didn’t get the > modified Clark Hitachi, i find the control knob feels wobbly and just > doesn’t have the feel of a solid well made tool. the more experienced > shapers will tell you the sooner you get the feel of it and gain control > the better, and i’m sure that’s true…i still would be happier with one i > could just set the depth on and go(unmodified), but thats just my novice > opinion. let me know what you get and what you think. He sooner you toss off the training wheels, the better your knowledge will be. I bought a Chicago Electric on sale for $39.oo, took the front shoe from my worn out Hitachi, installed it on the C.E. and had a new planer. When it craps out I’ll have the front shoe to install on another! Jim"the Genius"
He sooner you toss off the training wheels, the better your knowledge will > be.>>> I bought a Chicago Electric on sale for $39.oo, took the front shoe from > my worn out Hitachi, installed it on the C.E. and had a new planer. When > it craps out I’ll have the front shoe to install on another! Jim"the > Genius" Jim, how hard is it to remove the front shoe from a modified hitachi? Is it all in removing that little ring that is harder than hell to get off? I am afraid to break my entire knob assembly. Now that you have taken off a front shoe, can you see how clark foam customized the hitachi? How did they do it? What thread size did they go to?
I took the Chicago front foot and base plate off. The front foot got reworked with some epoxy (2 part goo in cans)to fill the edge guide line down the middle. I took both the front foot and the base plate and smoothed/rounded off the hard edges with 80 grit on my grinder. Looks like a “modified Hitachi” minus the quick adjust control knob. That being said…my first and still my favorite planer is the Sears Craftsman “Industrial” I picked up at on of their refurb outlet stores. I modified the shoe/base as above and I’ve found it to be an easy to control tool still no quick adjust depth control but I’m not in a hurry either. tom>>> from another beginning shaper(@20 boards), i’m wishing i didn’t get the > modified Clark Hitachi, i find the control knob feels wobbly and just > doesn’t have the feel of a solid well made tool. the more experienced > shapers will tell you the sooner you get the feel of it and gain control > the better, and i’m sure that’s true…i still would be happier with one i > could just set the depth on and go(unmodified), but thats just my novice > opinion. let me know what you get and what you think.
I took the Chicago front foot and base plate off. The front foot got > reworked with some epoxy (2 part goo in cans)to fill the edge guide line > down the middle. I took both the front foot and the base plate and > smoothed/rounded off the hard edges with 80 grit on my grinder. Looks like > a “modified Hitachi” minus the quick adjust control knob. That > being said…my first and still my favorite planer is the Sears Craftsman > “Industrial” I picked up at on of their refurb outlet stores. I > modified the shoe/base as above and I’ve found it to be an easy to control > tool still no quick adjust depth control but I’m not in a hurry either. Tom, Still haven’t tried a skil 100? I just want to find out from all you giuys out there if the skil 100 is over rated?
Ive been considering purchasing the Hitachi. Ive been shaping with a hand plane, sureform, sanding screens and blocks etc. Am I to understand that the Hitachi CANT be set for a given depth and just left there? You have to constantly have a finger on the dial so to speak?
Ive been considering purchasing the Hitachi. Ive > been shaping with a hand plane, sureform, sanding screens and blocks etc. > Am I to understand that the Hitachi CANT be set for a given > depth and just left there? You have to constantly have a finger on the > dial so to speak? YES.
HEY, Jim you forgot to tell them that the exhaust shoot adaptor(I build my own now) that Clark charges an arm and a leg for…also fits! Skill-100 GREAT PLANER , but to heavy. I have a grit barrel in mine for those special times.SB-20 PRO ,If you put a steel rod in the knob at the end of the control lever…say 3-4" long(need to go measure mine)you can lock it’s position on the body of the planer.ALSO if you know someone to re-wind the motor with better/finer copper wire it will increase the RPMs/AMPs.I had someone custom build me a cast&milled aluminum body but ended up dumping it because of… to much weight.I bought a F-20A …0HHH…10 years ago and it’s still going strong .I JUST KEEP UP WITH THE MAINTAINENCE!!! GOOD FOR ABSOLUTE SET CUTTING.It’s also hot rodded…bearings,motor,exhaust shoot,etc.HO HO HO!
To get the front shoe off of the Hitachi, you first drift the small knob from the main front handle. Pull it upwards and off, against the shaft at the bottom is a clip ring. Auto parts stores sell the pliers pretty cheap, you’ll need one to remove this clip in one piece. The shoe and shaft assembly can be drawn out through the bottom now. The adjustment mechanism isn’t so much a thread, but high aspect ratio planes. It is like the bed adjustment on a jointer, that is what the planer is, a hand held jointer. These with age get the finest packing of foam dust, this is the jerky feeling some of you refer to while trying to adjust the depth. These come apart and need to be cleaned and lubed. After oiling, I run the depth up and down about a jillion times and reclean, then lube again and reassemble. You that have never used a Skil #100 have become the first generation in the Urban Ledgend Saga of “back when I was a kid…we had Skil planers” The tool doeth not make the man Genius 1:1
To get the front shoe off of the Hitachi, you first drift the small knob > from the main front handle. Pull it upwards and off, against the shaft at > the bottom is a clip ring. Auto parts stores sell the pliers pretty cheap, > you’ll need one to remove this clip in one piece. The shoe and shaft > assembly can be drawn out through the bottom now. The adjustment mechanism > isn’t so much a thread, but high aspect ratio planes. It is like the bed > adjustment on a jointer, that is what the planer is, a hand held jointer. > These with age get the finest packing of foam dust, this is the jerky > feeling some of you refer to while trying to adjust the depth. These come > apart and need to be cleaned and lubed. After oiling, I run the depth up > and down about a jillion times and reclean, then lube again and > reassemble. You that have never used a Skil #100 have become the first > generation in the Urban Ledgend Saga of “back when I was a > kid…we had Skil planers” The tool doeth not make the man > Genius 1:1 Would any of you gentlemen, with so much experience be kind enough to offer your input, as to the pro and cons of these 3 units? 1. Skil 100 2. P20-SB 3. F30A Thanks!
Post a pic of what the f-20 modified lock looks like.
What is the purpose for needing to constantly needing to adjust the depth of the planer??
What is the purpose for needing to constantly needing to adjust the depth > of the planer?? Nothing in a surfboard shape is parallel, all curves, all tapering. With the planer set at, say 1/16", you get a series of stairstepped cuts. Starting off each cut with the planer on near zero and then opening up the cut as you move farther out from the start. These give a nice feathered cut. The rail bands are done the same way, a near zero cut to start at either nose or tail, opening up fuller through the center and back to close at the far end. You can hear the change in cut and know how deep of a cut is being made. Seeing it done efficiently makes makes it so much easier to grasp.
Post a pic of what the f-20 modified lock looks like. …TAKING PICS NOW SHOULD BE UP SOON!