Sorry for the noob question but what do you mean by blocksanding it in?
''Block'' of wood or other material, sandpaper wrapped around it so the flat surface of the wood makes the paper cut true. A search on here should have plenty of details.
I don’t know if vee is going to cut it on a tail that wide for his weight. I think you gotta bring the tail in.
I was going to comment last night but did not want to bother you guys. If you bring the tail in won't you once again have the same problem with the forced outline? What width tail at 1' and at the end would be reasonable with a width of 20 at center to be relatively easy to get on rail?
I’m no expert either, but I prefer your second-to-last one, with the 15 1/2 tail and 15 1/8 nose. I think the tail is too wide on your last one. Have fun with whatever you choose, and take your time…
When you guys say “turn on rail” are you comparing it to how a performance shortboard turns on its rail? Because I still want it to be able to ride smaller waves, it doesn’t necessarily have to “rip.” And like I asked earlier, could I just shorten the length and inch or so and everything else will decrese proportionally?
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If you bring the tail in won't you once again have the same problem with the forced outline? What width tail at 1' and at the end would be reasonable with a width of 20 at center to be relatively easy to get on rail?
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If the placement of the wp and curve ahead and behind are adjusted, the tail could be brought in to 15.25'' - 15.5'', which would go rail-to-rail a lot easier given the OP's weight. Of course. decreasing wp to 19'5'' or so would have allowed him to go with original nose and tail dims. That would have taken the ''bump'' out of the wp. Shorter boards are hard to ''fit'' to fixed #s because there's less room between wp and 1' measurements.
Some #s just don't go together. Classic example of this would have been in the early 90s when everybody wanted a 17.75'' wp because that's what Kelly rode. I'd get orders for a 6'4'' with an 11.5'' nose and 14.5'' tail. Those #s would yield something way too parallel through center. The OP's problem is the opposite, he wants more center width than his original nose and tail dims will allow cleanly.
What if I make the nose a little wider, and the width smaller? Now it looks more like a retro fish (without the swallow tail).
I have no expertise to offer, but I really like the look of your latest outline. Looks like a fun little board. In my opinion the curves look natural.
I did a little more tweaking with the design and I think this is the best I could get the curves to come out. I also made it a 5’7"
I think you could take the 15.5'' tail version and pinch the nose a little in the last foot (look back at your initial ''sketch''), and that would do it. When you actually template your blank, look it over for a while to make sure you like it. If you have more experienced help, ask his opinion also. His eyes are more trained an he might pick up some things you can't see.
MikeD, question. How does the rate of change of the last foot of the board effect the way the board will perform. Say from 15.5" to 7" vs 15.5" to 9 or 10"? Does this rate of change relate to the type of fin cluster used or somewhat independent? Looked for this because I know it probably was asked before but have not hit on the right combo of words to find it.
more like this? P.S. I can really see what you mean about my first draft, it looks horrible now that I got cleaner drafts.
Pulling in the tail behind the 1' mark gets you closer to a roundtail, which will initiate turns qucker - the tradeoff is losing planing surface back there (if you need it) and a small sacrifice in drive. Fin positions for quads can be influenced if you want the trailer fins a set distance off the rails.
Personally, I really liked the first outline, and think you could have evened out the excessive curvature by leaving some more foam in the nose; as in not pulling it in so much. On the later ones I think the tail is slightly overly wide and this, while evened out a bit on fishes because you are pivoting off each tip, will be harder to turn as a diamond tail that wide. And not tryin’ to be insistent/tell you what to do with your board, but if you want it to be more retro and be for smaller waves, why not just go with the standard retro fish outline that many find excels in small mush?
I made a board similar to yer outline, and actually it’s my favorite. It was #6. there are some pics of it in my photos on here. it goes faster than my other boards and it zips over slow sections and mush, making connections where a couple of my other boards would bog. It’s a twin. I never tried a quad setup. I can tell you it works great on Cape Cod beach breaks and Rhode Island points. I don’t do insane off the lip cutbacks, so I can’t tell you if it’s good for that or not, but I like speed and carving. You should make that board, cutbacks aside…it looks like a fun shape! D
Still a wide tail for your weight but a much-improved outline. And you did it by yourself, which will give you more satisfaction than ''copying''. Now comes the fun part; translating it into foam!
To be honest? I just wanted to try something that I haven't tried before and I've seen some retro shapes with some diamond tails as wide as they would be if it were a swallow, and I'm just really interested in how they would ride. I had a deep swallow tail quad once and I didn't like it too much, and I wanted to try something other than "the standard fish outline."
Just wondering, is there anything I can do with the rails to make it ‘bite’ more?
Thanks for the insight, btw. Can’t wait to shape this, especially under the guidance of Dave Yearwood.
To get more bite, go as thin as you dare on the rail from the front fins back. You should keep a little radius or squareness (whichever you prefer), not a toilet seat, but thin.