You shouldn’t have added the extra guide point. It would have been easier to just move the original wide spot a little further forward. Either that or reduce the width of the nose a little, which I doubt is what you wanted.
Your original curve looked a lot better than this new one. I don’t think you can delete the new control point, so the easiest thing to do would be to start over and do it again.
Alriiiiiight luckily I saved the original .brd and with each modification I just saved it as bd2, brd3, brd4 etc… this way if i didnt like any of the changes then I could immediately revert to the older one…
Hows this look? I shortened the length of the yellow and red points for the center guide point and moved it forward a bit… .using the horizontal line tool it doesnt look as if the mr peanut is as pronounced as before?!
I love tinkering with this stuff but its making me think i should get my eyes checked! I think I may need glasses!!! uh ohhhhh
i think this may be the one. started from scratch and compared against the others. for some reason none of the slices on the above model were active or “there” so the volume showed 0… this one I think is better 
Or I hope at least…
Dude Mar From Del Mar…
get rid of the wings…no wings or other complex stuff on your first board…,well, the need to make a HWS…That’s complex.
Go smooth…go clean. Go simple…stop re-inventing the wheel. I bet someone can just send you a file…that would be too easy…
Hey Stingray… Nice of you to check in… Its not my first board… below is my first hws board (secondboard ive made to date, first was a foamie. and im doing a dupe of the hws pictured below for a friend. same board but different wood patterns and species (black walnut, sapele/mahogany, cherry, and cedar)… this is the first (.brd) file I have created which I intend to produce as a HWS. Theboard I made below was Richs Minnow Template from T2S. I dont want to buy or use a template from someone this time…I want it to be my creation so to speak from start to finish. Even though its a dupe of a board that I have ridden I want a hand in every step of the process! Soooooo…Dont want to lose the wings as I am trying to emulate the above pictured board that i rode out in Hermosa, Costa Rica where my mom lives. I LOVED how this thing rode. It was perfect for my body weight and height and I am dying to get one into my quiver! (see pics below)
I could get allllll the way back on the tail with my back foot and get some hairpin turns in. Turn-and-go barrels…
I do appreciate the input though!
Not looking to take the easy route, i want to learn to perfect a (.brd) organically, with some tips from all the people who have more experience than I do at this time…
I LOVE making HWS too … As a Massage Therapist by trade, I love to work with my hands. Id rather do this than massage!
I neeeeeeeeeeed this board
You’re getting there. When I suggested moving the wide point forward I was thinking about a few inches, not 2 feet. That green dot is your center of mass, and it’s already 2 or 3 inches forward of center. The wing is at about 14", so the main template curve starts there. If you split the difference between where your wide point is now and the current center of mass point that will put it close to the mid-point of the main curve; and it will still be 6 or 8" ahead of center. You’ll get a little nicer curve in both directions. Right now the area forward of the wing is pretty straight (i.e., stiff).
P.S., the kind of HP surfing your describing is usually done on lightweight and highly rockered boards whereas HWS designs normally take advantage of the additional weight and glide. Just sayin…
Hahahaha so I went a little overboard on the midpoint adjustment. I like this process. Even with the frustrations; I want to learn this so I can just do it… Its like one of those give a man to fish vs teach a man to fish scenarios in my mind! 
And… for HWS Im definitely in it for the glide. I like the weight of these boards.
My surfing style is basically make a nice bottom turn or turn-n-go and glide down the line with minimal turns. I love the speed and the rush of being in that sweet spot in the wave.
I tend to dislike EPS boards as theyre too buoyant for my liking. They dont feel stable, always feel iike they want to eject out from under you instead of attaining a synergy with your body and the wave. The more I ride wooden boards the more I think of how I dont even want to go back to foamies!!!
That board I made above (5’ 4") was EXACTLY as I wanted it to ride for a board that size. I was surprised at how buoyant it was too!!!..But talk about nervewracking 45 second walk to the waters edge in front of soooo many beachgoers… “please float, please float, please float…dont let me do the walk of shame back to my car with a wall-hanger and nothing else…”
I digress, I made some changes. Had to keep starting from scratch which I guess is a good thing (kept getting error 187 after making changes…not sure what thats about but it wouldnt let me save it…just took deep breaths and kept chugging along!)
Here is the latest one I did below:
I think that’s easily your best curve yet. The cool thing about CAD is it doesn’t cost you anything to do a dozen what-ifs to see what shapes really speak to you. It looks like you’re already learning what happens when you move stuff around and lengthen or shorten the control points on a curve.
wohoooooo!!! thanks!!!
I may move the widepoint back juuuuuust a bit further, but im just so glad Im starting to slowly get the hang of it. I noticed when I shortened the distance between the red/yellow dots that it was a less-flat curve.
Thank you so much for sticking with me and for all of the feedback!!
IanT,
I’m interested that you use a control point at your wide point. I work with S3D and do things a bit differently to most, but I firmly believe that rocker and outline are better when they are not punctuated with intermediate control points. If I deleted the wide point in S3D, then the handles on the two end control points would adjust so that my curve does not change much. From memory this might not be the case in AKU, but if your curve moves a lot when you delete the wide point control point, it’s showing you that you are constraining the two curves that meet at the wide point (i.e. creating a dip or bump).
See whether you can achieve the “same” outline curve without the wide point control point. Hopefully AKU gives a readout of wide point so you can see how it moves as you adjust the handles on the control points at each end of the curve.
If I were to add another control point, I’d do it really close to the nose. You can always manually blend out any wierd stuff in the last couple inches of nose.
S3D lets me make the tip wider. 1/4"-1/2" at the tip makes a huge difference to the numbers I can hit in the outline (the wood template guys will tell you the same thing).
Two other minor points:
The “old skool” guys who use wood templates can probably give you insight into how the outline should flow after the wing. My understanding is that you take the original outline and shift it in to meet the marker where you want the wing to end. You end up with the original tail outline, but it’s shifted a bit.
Lastly, your 3D view shows the step at your wing. You may need to puff up the slice after the wings to get the deck smooth. I’d delete the existing slice, let the software interpolate to the tail slice, then add a slice and edit it to get the bottom contours right. Remember to put your slices at the place where the bottom or top features are maximum, not at an arbitrary 12" , 18" or midpoint. The interpolation works better from max conc to max vee, etc.
I hope it helps.
Red
