thats what the label says ,or maybe the other way around sealer/polish…its says brush it on or use a applicator like maybe one for car wax…two coats , thats it …nothing else needed. it claims it saves you the time of doing the real polishing thing…anyway what im wondering is , does this mean pinholes are no longer a problem.?..usually i sand to 600 wet, then rub, and polish. does this mean i can now stop at say,220 and just brush this crap on? and it will look like i polished it?..that would be nice…anybody ever used this kind of product…whats the best way to apply it, sand to what grit and, how long does this stuff really hold up in the water…oh yeah those pinholes, ive had worse but i have alot of very small ones on a board will this kind of thing seal em up?
what…nobody knows?i really need to know how long it will last…if its gonna come off in 3 months then i guess i need to get some kind of a actual shine on the board before i put this on.
perhaps if you’d actually identify the maker and brand we’d have some useful commentary
oh yeah…it is sold by fiberglass supply inc. i dont know the actual maker, but they sell it it says SURFBOARD SEALER…its acrylic , causes cancer , birth defects and other reproductive harm…in california.
ok, now that we know what it is…
this acrylic polish/sealer is basically a shortcut route to getting a gloss look. it’s a lot easier, and a lot less time consuming…but like most things, you get out of it what you put into it (and making surfboards is certainly no exception). over time, acrylic will break down and need to be reapplied. after a few months, it won’t look so pretty anymore, and won’t be fulfilling its purpose, either. quite frankly, you’re better off doing a gloss and polish if that’s what you want.
It’s a production thing to move boards out faster. It saves time by sanding only to 220 then applying. Any good clear acrylic (even Krylon) will give the same type of finish. Some guys use heavy duty acrylic for flooring or outdoor deck sealing since it’s somewhat tougher. If you want a sanded look, use the “satin” finish. I sometimes use it on repairs if a little weave is showing after final sanding. It will stand up to compound polishing, and will get to a good gloss. Lasts about 3 months if the board is used about every other day. Like alot of other things, cutting corners usually results in more work later. Having to get all the wax off and lightly sanding the whole board to re-apply or gloss later is a real hassle; especially with the usual dents that will be there. Just do a good gloss while the board is unwaxed and unridden.
well ive come to the conclusion that this stuff is crap…ok 30 minutes between coats …3 coats , thats 6 all together,3 on each side…thats 3 hours…not to mention the bugs that get stuck in it …i could have easily polished it permantely in 3 hours…i will now have to deal with somebody talking shit about me in about 3 months or so,hopefully they will bring it back so i can polish it for real…ive spent so much time dealing with this crap i hate to sand it off now…normally i just polish my hotcoat and it turns out pretty good…what about gloss coat is that any better?..is that something i can make myself?..or do i have to buy pre mixed/made gloss?..as usual i should have listened to advice…
gloss resin is basically just hotcoat resin with a lot more wax and styrene
Howzit have, 3 hours to dry seems like way to long, when I use acrylic thinner for a finish it only takes about 10 minutes before I can apply another coat and even faster if I dry it with a heat gun. I cut one of those thin green rice pot scrubbers, attach to a soft pad and go over the whole board which gives it a nice matte finish which also makes for a speed finish. You should also hit the board with the same scrubber before applying the acrylic to blend the sanding scratches, this makes the finish even better after applying the acrylic. I do this to all sanded finish boards and the customers really like the end result. A gloss coat will always be better than a rubbed out hotcoat but will add extra weight. Aloha,Kokua
gloss resin is basically just hotcoat resin with a lot more wax and styrene
thats kindof what i thought…do you know what “alot more” is?..twice as much? three times?..also does anybody out there know if this sealer/polish would be usefull for anything else? such as using to thin cheap acrylic paint? since this sealer is some kind of acrylic…i dont really plan on ever using it for polishing/sealing after sanding ,now that i see whats its all about.
Not the way I do it.And it faster! alot faster.Herb
herb…what? slow down now,what was that supposed to mean>
My sealer system is stronger,lasts just as long as a gloss finish,Wt.s a fraction of what a gloss wt.s,not to mention less hassle and costs less to use per volume…Also my Sealer system slides faster across the water than any other type bottom surface I have ever ridden,like by a long shot.
You guys are a smart bunch and you’ll figure it out soon/someday.Herb hangin’ with the notorious LBC
ok herb i got it all figured out …thanks for the info…much better…tommorow morning im gonna try your way …if its as good as you say then ill also explain it to everyone i know…thanks!
You go, Have
Never stop,don’t look back,and you’ll be on the right track!
,Living Well…is my best Revenge.Herb
who sprays hotcoat?..anybody?..spray gloss? gloss resin not paint ofcourse…put it in your gun and spray ,spray<tell me how you like it if you have tried it…