Thanks guys, pretty much what I said.
Drock, you're gonna love UV cure resin. My first use was a 10' longboard, glassed clear in my garage. Walls on three sides, roof, open door to minimize fumes. I wear a two cartridge respirator with organic vapor (activated charcoal) cartridges - you should too. Polyester resin is nasty to breathe, as has been documented on these pages.
I left the garage door open and late in the lam, noticed impending stiffness in the wetted glass at the end nearest the open door. I got that end stuck to the board, pronto, and from then on closed the door 2/3 of the way during all UV glass jobs. Which, after that first use, are all I've ever done UNLESS the board is an opaque. In that case it's back to catalyst for me, but still using UV cure resin.
The need for catalyst in opaque resin is seen when you pinline with UV. The pinline won't fully cure because the incoming UV sets off the resin only at the surface. I think surface curing is okay if the pinline resin is also catalyzed as it would let you move on the the next step without having to wait for full cure, BUT watch out, the pinline will not be well adhered to the board because at the surface of the hot coat it will not have hardened. Simply catalyze highly colored resin, and be safe.
As for coloring your resin, if not opaque you will need to have a near-perfect finish on the blank. Every minor surform tear will take more resin and result in a darker mark. The easiest way to approach color work is to do a yellow board. No matter the amount of yellow, it all comes out well in the end. Blue and red are MUCH more difficult to get evenly laminated, even with a finely finished blank.
But the difficulty of exquisite squeegee work on colored lams is itself the reason for UV cure - you can take all the time you need to get it right, then drag it into sunlight or flip on the UV lights, and 10 minutes later you're on to the next lamination. No way I'd try that with catalyst, I like to have my catted boards cure overnight between laminations. But that's just me.
Another point - the difficulty of exquisite squeegee work, and that a glasser may get a less than perfect finish blank from the shaper - leads to the popularity of spraying colors directly on the blank. There are advantages to this approach, some significant, but that's a whole 'nother bag of worms.