i was watching some guys coat a new hardwood floor today and got to thinking.
has anyone ever glossed an epoxy glass job with urethane or varnish or anyhting other than epoxy???
i wonder if there would be any bonding issues?
more polished finish?
could you gloss with regular ployester?
I believe urethane is what you should use over epoxy. Acrylic over polyester. Can’t remember who mentioned it, but try doing a search for finish sprays.
Varnish will work over epoxy, and will provide some UV protection. It will add an amber color, the tint will depend on the varnish. This is common on wood kayaks and surfboards. Varnish does give incredible gloss if applied correctly.
I’m very interested in this, I have an sanded epoxy board that I would like to put a lightweight gloss over to be sure that there is no water seepage. If you have any specific products that have been used in this application, please post them.
yes, I use a 2pak polyurethane by U-pol (S2086EV) with great success. Best epoxy gloss coat I've found. Great clarity, resistance to abrasion and can be polished to a supper shine, doesn't quite have the depth of a poly gloss coat but is as close as you are likerly to come.
Preferably apply with a spray gun, if not available you will need to do a few coats by hand sanding between coats. It drys very quickly so it doen't take long but you need to work FAST.
I use a water based polyurethane from Varathane (http://www.rustoleum.ca/CBGProduct.asp?pid=167) It goes on and stays clear and provides a great bond with epoxy. Also gives it some extra UV protection. I tried using it from a spray can once and it turned yellow, i think the styrenes in the aresol reacted with the epoxy, but I haved brushed it on many times with no problems.
cheers
I second the Varathane Diamond Spar Water based, brushed on. Very durable. Every other 1 part urethane I’ve used turns amber very quickly.
I’ve had vacuum bagged epoxy boards that had a UV polyester hotcoat.
How does that stuff rate on the toxic-meter?
I’ve made one board with epoxy lam and a polyester hot coat.
epoxy: rev chem. (it doesn’t mentioned much in these forums, but I believe it’s on par with resin research, except hot coating can be tricky since there is no wax agent)
Before the hot coat, I glassed the fins on with polyester as well since I was in a huge eager to ride the board and didn’t want to wait a few days for epoxy to be sand-able.
Surfing wise, the fins will stay on, even through numerous overhead days. But if it hits something the entire fin will break off pretty cleanly. Which sucks since you have to lam another fin on, but isn’t too bad because it breaks off so clean. which means that glass doesn’t want to bond together using the two resins. It could’t take the stronger impact that wouldn’t necessarily ding the fin if it was a proper glass job.
As for the polyester hotcoat. I used a standard UV cure resin. It works fine if you don’t hit your board. If you do hit something, the epoxy lam job is way stronger, so it doesn’t even show a sign of impact. As for the brittler Poly resin, it either cracks or sometimes comes off in larger half dollar sized portions very cleanly.
The board still works even with a the portions missing and takes in no water in my case. The epoxy lam coat seemed to seal itself in very properly even without a hotcoat.
Therefore, I don’t really think it works. Plastic and poly don’t want to mix “securely” enough.
You can get the MSDS from rustoleum.com, click on MSDS/TDS and
select Varathane / Diamond Spar Urethane from the Consumer pulldown.
Effects Of Overexposure - Eye Contact: Causes eye irritation.
Effects Of Overexposure - Skin Contact: Substance may cause slight skin irritation.
Effects Of Overexposure - Inhalation: Low hazard for usual industrial handling or commercial handling by trained personnel.
Effects Of Overexposure - Ingestion: Substance may be harmful if swallowed.
Effects Of Overexposure - Chronic Hazards: No Information.
Primary Route(s) Of Entry: Skin Contact, Skin Absorption, Inhalation, Eye Contact
First Aid - Eye Contact: Hold eyelids apart and flush with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. Get medical attention.
First Aid - Skin Contact: Wash with soap and water. Get medical attention if irritation develops or persists.
First
Aid - Inhalation: Remove to fresh air. If not breathing, give
artificial respiration. If breathing is difficult, give oxygen. Get
immediate medical attention.
First Aid - Ingestion: Swallowing less
than an ounce will not cause significant harm. For larger amounts, do
not induce vomiting, but give one or two glasses of water to drink and
get medical attention.
Did you have to wet sand and polish the varathane to get a shine?
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I second the Varathane Diamond Spar Water based, brushed on. Very durable. Every other 1 part urethane I've used turns amber very quickly.
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About 4 years ago I sanded and refinished my oak hardwood floors with the same product. Home Depot was pushing it as a less toxic alternative to other oil based finishes. I put on five coats. At first I was dissapointed how clear the finish turned out. Wood floors are usually more amber in color, because the pros generally use oil based finishes. Over time I started liking it better. The color looks more like freshly cut wood, which is kind of nice. I haven't noticed any darkening of the finish since applying it four years ago. I never thought about using it on a surfboard. I still have a half filled 1 gallon can of the stuff in my cabinet. I wonder if it is still good to use.
Yes, 7 coats brushed on, leveled with block to 150 grit, wet sanded through 600 grit then buffed for a gloss finish.
For sanded finish I just go over it light with 300 after the 150.
yea its real bad for you use twopac and probably illlegal to use without a proper spray booth in US. the 2pacs contain isocynates that vaporize in the air in a cloud which you breath unless you have a full face repirater. a hvlp gun would help reduce the product in the air but you need to be running about 16 to 20 cfm FAD to make them work good…
.the brush on 1pot stuff goes yellow on surfboards. looks shithouse and makes repairing the board cosmetically a pain in the arse .imo polyurethanes on surfboards are for hacks unless you got a proper spray booth. even then you are making a product that no one can or wants to repair so you wont last long in business
surftech uses acrylics
Lazymondo:
I do most of my boards with epoxy lams, hot coats and topped with a PE gloss coat. Sand the epoxy well and wipe it down with denatured and you should be good to go. Avoid severe rapid temperature changes becasue the PE can flex like epoxy can and you can prevent peeling. The only boards that had this problem were boards that were stored in a car on hot days. I have other boards that lasted over 5 years without any peeling.
D
I use System Three's water based lineal polyurethane and it is great. I like it because it is a water based urethane that you can thin with water and it doesn't contain isocynates. It is a durable finish that can be applied with or without a cross linker. I usually sand to 180 with it and then apply 3 or 4 coats with the spray gun. It can also be wet sanded and buffed to get a higher gloss. Fiberglass Supply carries it.
I would recommend you try a product called Durabak. We have a great 1-part Clear Polyurethane coating
I would recommend you check out a product called Durabak. We have a 1-part Clear Polyurethane with UV inhibitors (will not fade). Visit DurabakDepot.com
Thanks