Porus teflon coated glass

General Discussion
1

Anyone tried this http://www.acpsales.com/Porous-Teflon-Coated-Glass.html? Wondering if it could work as a reusable peel-ply/release film.

2

60" wide perforated release film at $2.80/yrd
38" wide teflon coated “release” glass at $10.80/yrd

what’s unique about it that would make you spend $10.80/yrd over $2.80/yrd for half the material?

its not a true infusion process just a flow through release layer

3

Never used perforated film. I’ve heard about issues with the perforated release film where the breather is stuck in the holes which means you had to use peel ply on top of the release film anyway. Peel ply is pretty much throwaway after use, I’m wondering if this teflon glass would be reusable.

4

Haardvard, don’t buy that. 

http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Vacuum_Bagging/vacuum_bagging.html

Release film should not go directly on a laminate, it will cause the breather to get sucked through to the laminate and cause bumps of dried resin and breather all along your board. Don’t ask me how I know that ;) 

Fiberglast.com is another source

For us low tech board building guys we don’t want to buy the type of fabrics needed for thick ply laminations that are cooked to over 400 degrees…just a waste.

A good peel ply with the right surface finish is worth it though…

What are you bagging? you can PM me if you want

5

Simple and cheap,

  • .4 mil painters plastic.  small razor slices just to let the trapped air out.
  • Wet out table, cloth over the .4 mil plastic, wet and squeegee. 
  • Lift the cloth and .4 mil plastic together.  It will keep your cloth from distorting when you move it.
  • Transfer the cloth and plastic to the board.  Lay the cloth against the board, with the plastic to the outside.
  • At this time slit the plastic in small holes just to let the air out.  Only at the bubbles, so you don't slit the cloth.  Small pricks more than slits.
  • Lightly squeegee the cloth down and the air out.  Let the vacuum do most of the work.
  • Tape the plastic down with masking tape.
  • The breather goes on the bottom.  The wet cloth and plastic goes on the top.  This saves the breather.  The vaccuum attachment goes on the bottom at the breather, not against the board.
  • Slide it in the bag, and come back in a couple of hours when cured, and peel off the .4 mill plastic.
  • If you were good, and pulled the bag smooth while it was drawing, no wrinkles.  Almost no hot coat needed either.
  • If you need bleeder, it means you left too much epoxy on at the wet out table stage.
I made an offer in the Modern Laminates thread to go into more details, but almost no interest was shown.  P.m. me for even better tricks.