Posca or Zig pin lines on hot coat

Just finished my hot coat and would like to put some pin lines down, grey and black and then hot coat again rather than use clear acrylic spray to seal pin lines. Is this possible? I have read about bleeding and smears from brush strokes. Which pins work the best and how do I prevent the bleeds or smears?


Tons of stuff in the archives on this. I use poscas all the time for pin lines and “art.” Just make sure you let the paint dry. You can seal it with clear acrylic spray then gloss coat if you want. I’ve never used Zigs. Mike

Zig pens, like the opaque writer, use pigment, so they are less likely to bleed than Poscas. I always let mine ‘dry’ overnight before glosscoating. Might be overkill, but I’ve never had one go funky on me. If you’ve taklen the time to tape everything off, another option is to use acrylic spray paint, or, if you dig the old school ‘bump’, tinted gloss resin.

Good luck!

Thanks for the info Rooster. In the past I have used posca pens on my hot coat and then sprayed with a clear acrylic. This time I would like to put my pin lines down, hot coat again that way it has more of a 3 dimensional look. I guess what I’m asking is there any difference chemically between hot coat resin and gloss resin that would create a problem. If I treat with acrylic can I hot coat with a good bond between the two?

I have used Posca on the sanded hot coat and then just pulled the tape and glossed (with thinned hotcoat resin) and it works fine. no bleeding. no need to put clear acrylic over the posca pinline if your going to gloss.

I have put my pin lines down with an guided hand and it works out very well without tape. How will it help to use tape? Crisper line? One tape line or two?

you have steady hands, even with a guide…

two pieces of tape with a gap in the middle where the paint or resin goes. you can also buy 3 piece tape and peel up the middle piece.

Howzit daved, If you already have both Posca and Zig’s at hand I say use the zig. Being a pigment ink it’s more durable that Posca. Another choice is take an empty posca , pull out the felt tip (real easy)and refill with India ink, Vola, you now have a felt tipped rapidiograph which for years was the alternative to resin pin lines. Aloha, Kokua


I use my board templates to make clean pinlines. Nothing too fancy. I’ve tried fee-hand. I drink too much coffee I suppose. I’ve used tape with good results, too as stated above. Mike


Compared to the Posca or Zig pins does the india ink run more (bleed) on pen lines? What about more then resin pen lines? I am worried about bleeds under the tape. I have started to use india ink (as per your suggestion months ago!) to sign the blanks on the hotcoat. We use white, black, or gold india ink depending on what color the board is painted in and it looks awesome. Is the “ink pen” a one time use thing or do you somehow keep the ink from drying in marker tip?



Howzit TS, I haven't had any problems with bleedage but I make sure the tape is down and I use a heat gun when doing pins which also stops bleeding,see archives on this trick. The tip won't dry out if you just put the cap on after you're done. If you want to refill a zig pen you need to punch a hole in the bottom to fill and then cover it with tape and store with the bottomup to prevent leakage. Before Poscas and Zigs there was pigment and rapidiographs so the use of India ink is not new. Aloha, Kokua

Old Old thread but… I tried a Posca pen and wasn’t impressed, seemed very thin (colour) and very runny. I went back to resin, but i am sick of the work involved as I keep sanding it off then doing again due to trying to level out the bump (shortboard). Never heard of Zig until this thread so thanks! Just ordered a Zig “Acrylista” 6mm black opaque paint pen, should do the trick i hope. :slight_smile:

Once I found my Posca pens dried up. I used Createx Airbrush paints (black) and got good results.

Resin pin lines are always a bit raised. at least the ones that I have felt in the surf shops. Its how you know that they were done with resin. which is cool IMO. But if you are not glossing your short board then I understand that you wouldn’t want to use resin.

Use you eyes when laying paint ink or resin. there will always be see through spots. Resin pins you need to work fast, get the resin down then tip out moving around the boards once or twice. Posca pens are thin, you need to lay down a few layers if you want a solid opaque look, let it dry and do it again. I prefer paint pens filled with laytex paint, only go around once maybe twice…Another option is straight paint out of the liqutex tube, put it down with a small flat art brush, then fill flat between tape lines with a razor blade…the razorblade is like a putty knife or squeegee…black & Blue are EZ to cover, yellow red etc are hard. Like I said, use your eyes…make sure you are happy with the opaqueness before you pull the tape…use a heat gun or blow dryer if you feel the need to accelerate the dry time.

Excellent stuff RH thanks. I have these Zig pens and quite impressed with then, I signed a blank with one with a super fine tip and it’s lovely and dark black. I have 6mm tips and going to try a silver pin line. Yes I love resin lines and even using a paint pen feels “unpure” to me! But I need to keep weight down with this board so gonna give it a shot.
Will do a few coats to make sure its opaque, thanks again

One thing I have noticed is normal masking tape doesn’t work nicely like it does for resin pin lines, I got a lot of bleeding under the tape, took ages to clean it up with razor. Anyone know of any tape specifically for (or good for) doing really accurate pin lines?

Here what I know. 3m tape 233 or fine line tape, get the automotive stuff. After you lay your tape you need to burnish and melt it into the fiberglass… This means rubbing it with you hand until the tape warms up and the adhesive sticks well. This also means using the back of your fingernail, or a Popsicle stick to push the tape down.
Also, you need to sand you board to at least 220 around the inline area… And if you have some weave spots showing then this needs to be sanded to 320. You get bleed when the weave is showing and the paint can wick up the cloth…or you have deep scratches and the paint can run the grove. The better your prep work the less touch with a razor blade you will do.

Attached is a poly board glasses with 4 oz, red paint pen lines, and an automotive clear coat over the whole deal.

Thanks, its all fine sanded and no weave on pin line so its not scratching causing the bleed, just bad tape and runny ink (zip pen) i think. I am only using masking tape. Will have a look for some fine line tape. thanks