OK – I sanded the deck of ‘Joey’s Gift’ (6’11" twinzer) with 400 wet paper and taped it off for pin lines. The board’s white so I decided red would look the part. I used red posco pen, pulled the tape and let the stuff cure for a couple hours in the sun. I mixed up 5 1/2 oz. of R.R. epoxy with Additive “F” and the resin skinned off great (Just the right amount for the board) but all of the pin lines that were on the most level surfaces bled color on the lower side of the line into the epoxy. I figure I can run another line right next to the one I have on the lower side, but I guess it’ll have to be of opaque resin.
So next time I want to do a pin line with epoxy what do I do?
Sounds like the epoxy had too long sitting on the pinline before gravity took effect and dragged it down with the flow. If it happened on the nose or tail then that’s where I would have expected it as the resin would have run off/flowed faster.
Posca pen too thick, Wasn’t dry, Additive F dissolving Posca, Too much brushwork on the flats over the paint.
Pretty much all the reasons that have gone through your head.
Blues, greens, and blacks in the Posca Pens will run much less. It is also possible to “lock” the red with some light clear acrylic spray before that last epoxy coat. Lastly, the RR accelerator (X-55) will most likely do away with the runs since the epoxy will kick off so quickly.
HowzitHalcyon, By any chance did you have to do 2 coats to make the pin line look good? I had a problem the other day because I didn't let the first coat dry long enough and I always wash the board after pinlining to make sure it's not going to bleed and the second coat came off(that's why I wash it first to check). So I left the board in the sun for 1/2 hour and then did the second coat and left it to dry for a couple of hours and there was no problem. Now I can see where poly gloss could cause a problem due to the styrene, but correct if I'm wrong but I don't think thee's any styrene in epoxy. If the first coat isn't completly dry I think it traps the undry acrylic paint then bleeds when the gloss hits it.Just a theory. Aloha,Kokua
P.S. the board I’m doing now will get red pins on the bottom and deck
The pin lining color didn’t cover after one coat so I put a second on. I guess two hours in the sun wasn’t enough. Oh well, live and learn. It’s just a little strange to me that it only ran where gravity was at work. The flat surfaces are fine. Where the resin migrated because gavity was causing it to move and run down slightly were the only ones that bled. The board will just have to get some more lines adjacent to the red ones that have bled. I’m sure it’ll look fine, just a little fancier than I’d originally planned. Just another hour or so and it’ll be fine.
I don’t know if the same thing would have happened with polyester. With UV cure it probably won’t have because I could have just waited for it to level and the put it in the sun, which would have fixed it immediately.
Because I can wash off epoxy with GoJo and water before it’s cured it seems to me that it must have some measure of solvent characteristics for water base material, which posca pens are.
Washing the board before applying the finish coat sounds like the ultimate test to see if the lines are completely dry for sure. Thanks for the tip Kokua.
I agree with Plusoneshaper, black Posca is OK, and so are light blue or green. When it comes to other colors (especially red), make sure they dry longer and spray some acrylic on it to be sure. I even had a polyester glosscoat that cured everywhere except on a wide red Posca artwork the other day. Don’t know why. It didn’t bleed or anything but the resin remained sticky right over there.
The red pen color contains Oxide which inhibits the cure especially for polyester. There is an accelerator for RR Epoxy (X-55) so there would be less time for the solvents in the resin to dissolve the pen ink. Also, the amount of Additive F could be reduced or eliminated but then blushing would become a problem…
…the “downhill” effect of the resin flowing down the rails can be avoided as well. If you have a situation like the running pinlines, you could put the tape line for your hotcoat along the lower edge of the red pin line. Then you could do another hotcoat for the rest of the rail from the top edge of the pinline out to the outer edge of the rail. The epoxy hotcoat would be doubled at the pinline but would be easily sanded flush with the correct grit of sandpaper.
OR,
while there is still tape on each side of the pinline, you could run a batch right on top of the pinline and when the epoxy gets tacky, pull the tape and hotcoat as normal…
I taped off along lower edge of red pin line on the rail and ran another course of tape below it in preparation for a second line in pigmented resin. Before I shot the resin line I ran the upper edge along the tape with india ink and let it dry. Then I shot the resin pin line. just pulled the tap and it’s curing in the sun to accelerate the process.
When I shot the finsh coat on the bottom I’ll tape along the upper edge of the red pin line. This will help fill in the ridges and I won’t have to sand so much to bring everything toghether.