Post them to facebook or some other site as an image server first, then use the link and the embed option (the little image next to the film strip) to embed it via link rather than direct-uploading to sways… it takes some of the load off their servers not having to host the photos, and it gets automatically resized to a friendly format by facebook or instagram
Just put the logos on today - white pigment/sanding coat… now just gotta hotcoat it
yeah sushka finally done and a free rack in the shaping bay lol. I am in there tomorrow got 3 more bonzers to do.
Ha… yeah about that free rack…
Feel free to move my EPS blank if you need - I’m not starting it until next week so you can lean it or stick it way up top if it’s in your way. I’m gonna start glassing that fish maybe tomorrow night or the following morning though, so there will definitely be free racks
I’m thinking we need some more racks on the other side of the wall now, haha
Edit: We gotta get that other shaping room finished too!!
This is my most recent shape. It’s my sixth one so far.
5’4" x 21" x 2 1/2" retroish fish. Planning on a tinted bottom lam, not sure what color yet. Clear deck and hopefully my first try at pinlines. Also going to be making two plywood keels to glass on. The first glass on single fin I made came out great. Don’t have any closeups of it finished…
Sprayed the top because I botched the lam. Didn’t mix enough tint so it came out patchy.
That was my thrid shape, first log 8’6" x 23" x 3". Four and five are similar logs which still need to be glassed, as well as the new fish. I’ll probably finish the fish first…
NICE!!! Although if I can make one suggestion - use more rope on that fin! I made my own plywood fins and glassed them on myself before - one thing I’ve found is that the wood doesn’t bond as well to the board as fiberglass does, so if it’s got a wood base a little extra roving goes a long way. I did mine about the same ammount you did the first time (the fins basically went flush and formed a 90* angle with the deck the way removable fins do) and they snapped off after a few months… I re-did it with more roving the second time and it was much better. With wooden glass-ons, a good rule of thumb is that there should be enough fin rope to create a bead around the fin which can be fared out to create a slope between the fin and deck like this one
Here’s a wrecked up old MR I have been working on. I bought it out of a rental rack in a shop In NJ nearly 10 years ago. Last year I was finally able to start in on it and put the rail plug in. The plug I pulled out wasn’t correct in tickness, outline or any concievable measurement. It was more like therail profile from a 60’s popout. I got the color close enough for my tastes then had to shut my shop for the winter.
So again, this fall I got to poking at the fins. One was brown and glassed in and the other was white and heavilly glassed in. Started in with the dremmel on the clear fin and come to find that the clear fin was grafted onto the stump of another brown fin! It was all bad and had to come out.
Maybe next summer I’ll get to actually finish this thing as I have to close shop for the winter again. Fixing this board has a very low priority as far as my wife is concerned. Any advise as to what kind of fin system I should go with?? And besides the rail repair and the fins, the board is in decent shape. Just some misor ding repair and a small delam to patch.
It’s difficult to tell from that picture, but there is a decent slope between the fin and the board. When I was wetting the rope it had an opaque milky color like that before it was completely soaked through, so I dripped resin and poked it around until it was transparent. I’ve only done one, so I can’t say that’s what’s up with the opaque color on that board, but I definitely prefer a transparent joint. What’s the reason for that color other than dry rope? I could definitely have used a little more rigidity though, because the finished fin came out a bit floppier than I expected, but it works very well in the water. Very snappy, turns on a dime when you step on it. Sometimes I worry about it snapping off but the cloth patches I used cover about a 2ft sq. area so I’d be impressed if those popped. It’s also like an 8 inch fin so the floppiness is enhanced by leverage. As for my keels for the fish, I feel like one rope on each side will be plenty of strength because they’ll be around 2-3 inches shorter with nearly the same base length/footprint. I’m going for something like these… http://instagram.com/p/r8UogVvXih/
My boards are pretty boring, but my latest project is to reincarnate these. Interestingly, when the motors are rewound, they burn off the old windings in a blast furnace; these are there already. What happened to them is a sad story, and I’m sure the owner would like to keep it private. They’ll live again though and I’ll post the “after” pix when done.
Shaped one too many black beauties?
Holy cow Pete. It will take a miracle. Wish I could watch.
Those belong to Sanolocal by any chance?
That was my guess as well.
Hi Pete.
FrankenPlaners - I Live !! 
Barry will gladly validate them for you . :-)
New one I just started working on - 4’6" x 21" x 2" rounded fangtail wakesurf board - I got the outline all cut out but my phone died before I could take a photo, so you just get pencil for now. I’ll try to post a photo of the cut outline tomorrow if I get a chance.
EDIT: Here’s the cut outline
love colors !
Hey,
please don’t make fun of me as this is my first time building a board. somehow it seems everyone here always does such a great job with it, so I thought I would share my first experience as well. I have to admit I am not sure whether I messed it up entirely…
My biggest concern would be the foil of the board. On the picture and in real life it looks like the tail is way too long! Am I messing this up here?
Any advice would be great!
cheers,
Sebastian
Keine Angst CBass!
You might want to start your own thread for advice on your design, to get better discussion, ideas, and answers.
-J
Start by putting some carpet on those shaping stands to protect your blanks - never want wood-on-foam contact… then, make a thread asking specifically what you want to know - you’ll get a ton of great responses
This 6’ x 20" x 2 3/8". Maybe board #10 [not sure] . My 3rd glass job and all my fins.
I have been retro fitting bonzer fin sets to standard single con shortboards with fairly poor results. It got me thinking about how bonzers ticked, so I made up this 7 fin set with less area overall to try. Very thin flexy runners, on a pretty standard bonzer style board and bottom. Feels pretty free and fast. Good backhand.
Like all of my projects, I’ll prob grind of the fins and try as a 3 or 5 stup to compare.
