Aloha everyone! Although basic surfboard design theory is pretty universal, the biggest differences relate to the area that you’re from, and the waves you’re riding. I had originally started surfing and making surfboards on the east coast, and made the big migration to California. A step-up in the juice level for sure! Although I lived in Ca. for a long time, I’ve lived over here a lot longer. Sometimes I find it hard to recollect the difference in energy between Hawai’i and the rest of the world. When I was a little kid, I remember reading in the magazines about how there were boards for east coast waves, Ca. waves, and Hawai’i waves. There really is a big difference. In hopes that I don’t come across as some kind of ‘super expert’, I feel the need to remember the amount of juice that we design for, and around, over here, in relation to most of the rest of the world. So, basically, my posts are from an Island-style perspective. Still, designing boards that are fast and loose, that essentially disappear under you, in waves anywhere in the world, means that you are surfing with… freedom. I hope that everyone, everywhere, tries their best to create the best surfboards available. As the great shaper said, “Live clean, surf clean, shape clean”. Aloha…RH
I think it all comes down to this: trust the one shaper who knows best the kind of waves you intend to ride.
Howzit Rick, I remember people telling not to bring a Cal board to Hi. when I moved to Hi. They all said get one there since it'll be made for Hawaiian waves. Luckally I had a board that ended up working better in Hi then it did on the mainland, But I did add some little side biters to it. I also brought a board that was shaped by a known surfer/ shaper who grew up in Hi but it didn't work.Aloha,Kokua
Kokua,
This so true. I got a whole bunch of island boards in the garage that I should have left on Oahu. There is definately a difference in what works in 5 ft Pacific Beach wave, and a 5ft Gas Chambers wave. You need a lot less board to catch the islands, but a lot more board to keep the wave. 2 years ago I picked up a Chapman Brewer 7’6" x 20 x 3 worked like a champ in the islands, sounded like a good all-rounder for over here. Over here it’s a slug that gets run over by long boards.
Hey you Hawaii guys. What your favorite aspect / dims of 7-8ft performance, non long board shaped island board. I’ve been seening Greg Griffin posting picture here, maybe he will chime in and tell me about those 5 fin boards?
eager to learn,
-Jay