Any advise on how to precision cut a deck inlay? I was able to do a perfect bottom tail inlay, but it took me x2.
I see these super shapers on YouTube just-frikkin-slicing with the scissors, I don’t have that confidence. Is there a fail-proof tricks on cutting these inlays without biffing it and wasting glass? I’m just doing a simple daimond.
Well… there’s the old scissor cut but I wouldn’t necessarily call it ‘precision.’ There is also the masking tape/razor cut. More precise but possibly less asthetic to some(?)
You might even try the razor cut with no hands like Lee Vanderhurst, who is definitely part alien and telekinetic, shown here cutting a lap. I hear he also plays a mean Theremin.
Tape off the rails and cut the sides as a you would a cut lap with a razor if it’s an inlay between the bottom lam (where bottom rails wrap onto the deck)
Or tape off the bottom for a cut lap and let the patch drape the rails and cut it at the lap line with the top lam.
Here’s a nice example of a tinted bottom inlay. Folding lengthwise and cutting both sides at same time is definitely a good idea. Even on this professionally glassed longboard I can see a bit of asymmetry in the inlay cut.
On a basic diamond pattern deck inlay on a clear board, even using Volan treated cloth, it should be less noticeable if it’s not perfectly even.
A bit of asymmetry… that is a kind discription be cause it is very off. These are also not inlays, they are patches. An inlay would be taping off an area then glassing and then trimming with a razor blade much like a cutlap followed by another layer or 2 over the entire bottom or top of the board. A patch is stronger than an inlay due to the edges of the inlay plus you end up with more resin between layers with an inlay. With a patch you can get the layers tighter together which makes a stronger bond. Also the edges of the patch lay down flatter which prevents the edges from shearing the layer above which then causes cracks in the glass which then allows water to get into the board. Patches are always prefered for knee paddleing and fin placement due to the need for extra strength in those areas.
Hi John. The asymetry on this one may come from working too hard with the squeegee, that did happen to me a few times whereas the cut was perfectly good. Just laying the patch on the blank after cutting should be done very precisely (I always check with a square that both ends are at the same level).
Brilliant, thanks gdaddy. I won’t be doing any volan inlays anythime soon, but I could see using this method to get a nice clean cutline when I stagger shortboard deck layers. Even in the blue moon I manage to get a clean even cut (I like to cut it like swallow butt crack that meets on the stringer) it tends to move a bit when laying the 2nd layer over and squeegeeing
Yeh… I can see it too. I did the fold and just cut it with scissors. The pin line will cover the rail cut, (which is perfect) I should trust in my abilities abilities more, is the take-away. It looks good. I’ll take some pics after the sand coat cures.