Just wondering if it’s possible to repair pressure dings like in the pictures without damage to the veneer wood? The board seems to be water tight however I would like to restore the luster of this beautiful board. What would be the best way to repair something like this?
hi, i’m not real experienced, but to me that looks like polyester gloss over veneer. Looks like there is no glass at all over the veneer. If there is, then it hasn’t been damaged.
You should be able to very carefully sand out the cracked resin and fill it back in with more resin…
I’ve got the Wingnut noserider in the same construction, and had lots of cracks like that. Basically you have to sand the cracks out, recoat with polyester, sand and polish up. A real pain in the butt.
I reckon they should have put glass on the outside then filled and gloss finish - would be less prone to this.
Thanks, I forgot to mention it is a Surftech board so yeah it’s just a ploly top coat from what I understand on their diagrams.
"Structural Veneer" construction - used by Cobra on any number of brands, including Surftech and Naish paddleboards. Another example of 'beyond diminishing returns' in quest for lightness. In the links below you will find similar discussions found. In one of the discussions Goomba271 responds... that is me relating my experience with a Yater structural veneer by Surftech.
In a nutshell? Combination of too soft core coupled with inadequate reinforcement. IMO boards shouldn't just self destruct like that during normal use.
The big factories in Asia offer their wholesale buyers a 'menu' of options. It is up to the buyers to spec the boards that they contract to have built. Check the specs on a high end Starboard (Cobra) SUP and compare to the basic Naish (Cobra) or Surftech (Cobra) structural veneer specs. Also compare weights between similar boards.
As with Polyurethane/polyester stock boards made anywhere, there is a definite price to be paid for weight decreases. At some point ultra-light = disposable.
http://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php?topic=1962.0
http://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Stand-Up-Paddle/SUP/Cobra-factory/
PS - And yes, there is little, IF ANY fabric reinforcement on the outside of those structural veneer boards. I found NONE in the areas I had to repair on mine.
To me they look like regular old pressure dings...what am I missing here? So you just sand them down to the the glass, hit it with styrene type stuff, or thinned out epoxy. Put a glass patch, sand it down a bit, then hot coat... UPOL spray and buff out
Therein lies the problem with those things. I’ve repaired a few with that same issue. There is no glass to “sand down to”. It’s essentially a gloss coat over the veneer.
Memory tells me that the first versions of the “woodtech” boards actually had a layer of 4 oz over the veneer. A couple of friends had them, back when they first were introduced. I could be wrong, but I swear the early ones had a layer of 4 oz on top of the wood.
what, What...>>>>>>what..
You telling me da surfamabord got no fibermaglass? How's can dat B?
Den dan surfamabord need da fibramaglass....ok?
Yes, that’s right. Seems some places think you don’t need that farberglass stuff anymore. Their wrong.
Oh yeah!
Hooray for Sucktech.
Remember. If you attempt to re-invent the wheel, it should be better. Not worse.
No fiberglass. Really?
Scary.
Barry
There is fiberglass under the wood veneer. Wood is actually much better than fiberglass in compression. The real issue is that they used cheap and brittle polyester resin over it to make the board polish up easy and look nicer.
If they had used a good epoxy on the outside the board might not polish so nicely but at least the gloss coat would be bonded to the wood and could flex with the wood instead of just cracking like that.
Totally agree with trent. But I would have put some glass over the veeneer too.Have seen boards do the same thing with epoxy lam, poly hot coat boards(regular glass no veneer)Used to make em in chiba as a pieceworker and I told the manager he should go epoxy hot coat but wouldnt listen. Never understood why.
LMFAO…Barry, you rip!!
With the stupendously thick hotcoat they use, they could have added a layer of glass on top of the wood with no extra weight and you’d get a sandwich construction. I bet the reason they don’t is purely cosmetical.
Are you sure about the wood being better than fiberglass in compression? I was under the impression that the compressive strength of a laminate would be roughly the same as the compressive strength of the resin used. The sources I’ve found lists wood at approx. 5000-8000 (parrallel to grain), polyester fiberglass from 20000-50000psi and epoxy resin in the 15000psi range. Couldn’t find any data for epoxy fiberglass. Even if you add weight into the equation as in comression strength / weight wood doesn’t look too good.
Giving a figure for “wood” is a bit vague, IMO. Which species? Density, grain structure, etc varies greatly depending on the type of wood.
And, yes, the wood veneer Surftechs have a layer of glass under the wood. I find it odd that they chose doing it that way. Seems to me, if you’re only going to do one layer it would be more effective on top, not underneath. As memory serves, the standard Tuflites have one layer of glass, then sheet foam, then another layer of glass on top. Whatever the case, both methods still qualify as popouts.