yeah tints are hard to pull off without mud.
thats an fabric inlay in balsas post above
you could use freaks of fashion in germany to do you some cool inlays for the kiteboards with you logos on them.
check out the industry forum and look at the searching for shapers thread.
good man paul, you have been a real help, send us your screen guys contacts and i will have chat, doubt he would mind the extra business?
cheers
well after a w/end of testing various ways from this thread i still think what i trying to do is almost impossible. the printed rice paper doesnt work as it bleeds through, no matter the amount of light dusting it gets. i tried one with a clear laquer down first the white ontop of that and it came out good, only problem was when i glassed it in to layup and went about testing it the layer just peeled of, so the bond was not really that good. spoke with freaks of fashion and again their cloth will not work unless its a white backround. looks like screen printing directly onto the finished board might be my only option. cheers for the advice anyway guys. i will let you know if i can come up with a sensible solution.
regards
sean b
next question what type of rice paper have you got?
if its the really fiberous stuff from an art shop the paint will bleed through.
the stuff i have is what the screen printers use and is shiny on one side.
you could also print your logo onto plain white paper and glass that in
paul
hey paul, i would have thought the regular white paper wouldnt take the resin completely through, no?
also the colour would be very dull?
my rice paper i got from the print environment, its already printed onto but it seems to be the fiberous stuff, not shiny on either side, this might be the problem, where can i get this shiny stuff?
Sean, inkjet printer paper takes resin, just doesn't go clear. I've done quite a few boards using it for my logo when glassing over color. It takes the backing white paint much better than silkspan/rice paper without bleeding. The one drawback is that it is noticeably thicker and will leave a hump in the glass. Not that big a deal, just need to be careful when sanding.
as surfthis said plain printer paper will work
if you pm your address i will send you and a4 piece of the rice paper i use to try i got my roll from australia.
cant seem to find it over here.
guys,
wonder if you could tell be about hot coating. i gather its basically the last coat of resin left to go off abit then applied. is this correct? does it leave a real nice finish or is sanding and finishing required after it cures?
i asked because my board bottom comes out super clean with no finishing required. its made as a single flat laminate seperate from the board construction then layed up on the table and resined to the board. up till now i have wet layed the top on this and used peel ply and breather fabric under vacuum. when all is cured the board has the shape with the bottom perfect but the peel ply leaves impression on the top. this i then sand down but its lots of work to right, something i havent quite managed yet. as my top is a 3d shape, centre core is higher than the perimeter i was considering building a negative 3d mould to make my top seperate, same as the bottom but alot more complex. this would involve making a super smooth top shape then casting a gelcoat and fibreglass mould from that, then use the mould to cast my 3d top sheet. this would need vac bagged into mould to get the shape. i would be vac bagging the top sheet and then vac bagging altogether, alot more work in my mind. you reckon hotcoat would be a better option? less work?
cheers
sean b
thought i’d share the latest board. still perfecting the finish, getting real close. the white is gonna work real good on the next 1
