sean b calling in from belfast to say hello, 1st time for me, done a night of searching on the forum and havent hit the answer i am looking for so here goes.
i am looking to put a graphic into a carbon layup. bacially carbon down then graphic then last glass layer. so far i have tried the tissue paper printed but the black carbon just kills the colours. i have tried vinyl but because it just sits ontop of resin its not the bond i want. i tried double acylic paint from car place and glassed over but where i painted it came away but stayed on where the carbon was. its not a logo but half the board with carbon showing through in places. i seem to have hit a wall with this one, i am currently testing wetting you the graphic on fine cloth, curing, then applying white pigment resin to the back, curing and then cutting out design to be glassed but its alot of back and forth i could do without.
if any of you lot know or could steer me in the right direction that would be great.
a few questions, i take it your doing this? what type of acrylic paint are you using? does the print not absorb the white from the back through to the front?
nice 1 paul, i am cooking my layup at 30 degree C plus, will this effect the paint, i have found the bond for epoxy is way stronger if heat cured as opposed to room temp, which right now is 7-8C in lovely belfast
using SP106 and SP115, the latter for uv protection.
i am making kiteboard twinnies, i layup on a sheet of glass/window type well waxed and polished, all is done in reverse so the glass/window comes away to reveal a smooth clean surface no pinholes when properly squeeged out. i might vac bag the next one. i have built a small box around it, stick a heater into it for curing. so basically no hotcoat in my process, will give this idea a go over the weekend and shout back with some results.
never heard of this RR or KK resin, are peeps doing this in ireland, would like to find out about it if you got more info on it. PM me if it breaks the rules on here.
btw way, oven cured takes 2-3hrs and like i said way better bond. i have built a poly tent around my vac table and again throw the heater into it. try it
a few questions, i take it your doing this? what type of acrylic paint are you using? does the print not absorb the white from the back through to the front?
cheers
sean b
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Do as Balsa or PaulUK said, but you may want to spray paint first then print. Try it both ways. I've had it bleed through after printing so the sharpness of the logo was diminished a bit. Should work fine with light "duster" coats as Paul mentioned, but sometimes it goes on a bit heavier than planned.
this is what i am trying to achieve. originally the yellow colour was white but the printer guy couldnt print white, as normally the foam get thats colour. might change it back to white if the acrylic white works good. my prints are coming from a specialised printer so doubt they allow painted tissue through their printer. how do you feel a primer on first before the white goes on would work? should stop the bleed through, no?
my main concern about the acrylic is on the bottom were the print reaches the outside. this rail is not wrapped like a surfboard, pretty sure you guys know the score with kiteboards anyway. when i masked a previous board and sprayed with double acrylic then glassed it was these places that broke down first. water and sand go in and delamed on through, only where the paint was. didnt affect the ride or anything just destroyed the last layer. remember theres a serious amount of flex in these compared to surfboard. the reason i like the tissue print idea is that all becomes structural, my concern would the layer of acrylic under the graphic will not bond well to the resin below and delam as before, granted i was using gloss though pauls earlier post suggests matt satin paint. i will do up a test this w/end and then set about destroying it. this is my last hurdle, making it look sweet at a managable cost, got silly prices back for subliminated plastic. not gonna happen that way.
Your’e best bet is to silk screen the graphics onto the board. Pretty much the same way it was done on snow ski top sheets in the old days before sublimated graphics became the standard.
Silk screen is the way to go if you’re doing any production; Here is my own logo (doing lots of resin tints, cloth inlays and the like so I needed something that would stand out against dark colored backgrounds):
hey paul, i called into car paint place and they didnt do an off the shelf spray, said i needed a 2 pac can made up. is this what you mean. didnt want to get it incase it was the wrong 1
