Wow! I am always amazed at the passion Swaylockers have over how they do things.
To be clear, I am not in competition with anyone else’s system for sticking down their sandpaper or cleaning their pads. More power to you if you do it differently. Add all the extra tools or different adhesives you like. Personally, I like to streamline things and tend to use the minimum amount of tools, materials or gizmos wherever possible. So a heat gun is an unnecessary addition to my sanding world.
Ghettorat. (do we know each other?) I got a kick out of your "hot glue balls" comment. Shows you truly know what I am talking about. I am with you on what a pain those balls are when stuck in your arm hair. Made me chuckle, thanks! Regarding your "old school" comment...... right again. I think it was Ronald Patterson (Timmy's Dad) that showed me that technique some 40+ years ago when I sanded at Hobie with him. Keep in mind though that old is not necessarily bad, anymore then new is always good.
External heat sources are only necessary when one doesn't have an effective, on the fly system, that prevents glue and paper build up while sanding. My method doesn't condem other methods like a heat gun or Super 77 if available and one wants to add those extra things to their system. I have Super 77. I use it for ProBox Jigs. I have a heat gun... have had them for decades. Currently using one for stripping the old layers off the lead keel of my boat. But I never found them necessary for removing sandpaper from the sanding pad..... cause the paper doesn't stick and tear if removed when hot from sanding. And it gets plenty hot in the normal process of sanding. Ya just have to take advantage of it at that moment. If I forget, I am perfectly comfortable with a quick 10 second spin on the counter top, to bring up the temperature. Beginners can easily do this, it takes way less skill then sanding the actual board.
While those molding bumps look like they might cause problems, I have never experienced any and removing them didn't seem to matter. But I do make sure my pads are flat, clean and round.
Kokua, I don't know how you get the paper to stick well enough to handle 5,000 rpm if you only put the Taki on the molding dots. Do you sand at slower RPMs or somehow not get it as hot as I do?
Reverb, your system sounds fine when used carefully. But as you know, it is easy, especially for beginners, to use to much 77 and then they will have problems with removal.
Aloaf, I am not sure why you are having problems with Taki. It can dry out and get thicker and less effective even while still in the bottle if it sits around too long, especially with the cap off. I typically get 4-6 sheets of sandpaper per glue application. Remove the old paper when it is hot and apply the next sheet immediately. Don't let the pads glue sit without paper on it and dry out or collect dust. And.... make sure you store your paper, grit side up so that the back side isn't covered with dust when you try to stick it down.
I have multiple pads and machines so I can pull the 60 grit on the medium pad when done and immediately replace it with a new 60 grit. Then pick up the soft pad with 150 grit that is all loaded and ready to go since the last board, then sand with it and replace that paper when done. Then switch to super soft pad with 220 grit and replace that with a new sheet of 220 when done. Now all the pads are ready with new paper for the next board and the adhesive is as fresh and sticky as it is can be without applying more each time. This way if I don't use the 60 grit fully, it can stay on its pad for use later. If you only have one pad, you have to switch papers more often.
In a hobbyist mode which is typical of most backyarders, all kinds of assorted techniques, materials and tools can come into use. But when these are tested in high production, that environment will quickly distill them all down to only those that will get the job done at the least cost, highest quality and fastest speed. Never be afraid to explore new stuff but keep a close eye on what the pros do
Lastly, while few boards get glossed these days, it is still important to mention that using any kind of "spray" materials inside a shop can send aerosol particles drifting all around the shop that can then wreak havoc on gloss coats, etc. so do be careful as you explore using aerosols at various stages of surfboard building.