i just removed replaced 4 Proboxes... Larry told me to:
1)remove the screws.
2)set the jigs
3)set the router so that it will only remove 1/16"-1/8" of material.
4)when you go to plung your router, set it up on one of the edge's of it's base, get it running and let it tip/hinge into the hole. HOLD TIGHT! route through the center of the box lengthwise leaving 1/16" of the box at the front and rear. careful to not go too far as the bearing won't hit the jig, the blade will hit the jig.
5)set the router 1/16" - 1/8" deeper and repeat step 4.
6)repeat step 4 and 5 until your router depth is at the standard probox install depth and your router bearing guide now will hit the jig. route front to back again, this time go all the way until your bearing hits the jig front and back.
7)now take a chisel or something similar and tap the 2 sides in towards the middle and pull them out. the quality of bond that the original install achieved will decide how easy this step is to do. (for me, this didn't work so well. or maybe i was a little squeamish using a hammer on another guy's board that i was repairing... see step 8)
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8)i ended up setting my router depth to take off about 1/8" of material and routed around the inside of the jig. i eyeballed it so that i didn't hit the jig with the router. i left about 1/4" between the cut and the jig all the way around.
9)set the depth 1/8" deeper and follow my previous cut. go slowly, you really don't want to route into your jig. EDIT: it's critical (i learned) to only set the bit to take off 1/8" of material or less. any more and the bit wanted to grab and pull into the plastic and, at this depth, you don't have the bearing protecting you from going right into the jig.
10)repeat steps 8 and 9 until i was at the normal probox depth. now i shaved around and got the rest of the material. be really careful on this step. i was using a full size router and when i would shave at the walls of the cut, the router wanted to grab sometimes and pull into the walls. hold on tight and go slow...
11) after i finished routing out the holes, there was a THIN wall of the plastic box all the way around the inside of the holes. i don't know how this happened... different sized bearing on my bit? different sized blade? hmm? anyways, i went with a box knife blade and sliced/shaved behind the plastic wall all the way around until i got all the plastic out and had bare foam. this worked pretty well.
12) once you get all of the original box out, it's install like normal.
hope that helps and i didn't bore you to death... looking back at it though, i think Resinhead's onto something... definitely quicker
