Probox Routing Question

So I just routed my finboxes out and when I went to put the actual finboxes in the holes they are not perfectly flush with the deck. I was thinking of maybe adding a little more resin than normal so some resin will seep over the top and fill the area around the box? Also, a couple of my routed holes are very clean, but are tilterd at an angle. Will I still get the preffered cant? Thanks for taking the time to read this and I hope some you probox experts will help me out on this one.

Thanks

Ok, first of all…When you say the box is not flush with the glass, what do you mean? You do realize that there is a resin dam that is higher than your glass. Are you using the install kit? The hole can be deeper than the box because the tabs prevent the box from falling in the hole. What was the depth of your router? After the resin cures the dam is ground down. I highly suggest that you watch the install video on the probox site.

Yeah, look at the install video on their website again…all the way through.

Properly installed the outer perimeter edge/dam should be ground down with a polisher/sander.

should look like this when installed

And like this after resin is set and you pull the router guides

then grind them flush, like this

Hey Snap10,

Sounds like you’re OK with your routing.

“I was thinking of maybe adding a little more resin than normal so some resin will seep over the top and fill the area around the box?”

The tabs on the box are supposed to snap into the router jig and should be firmly contacting the bottom of the board. They align the box perfectly in the routed hole and will be ground off when the resin cures. Fill the hole with resin until it flows above the bottom glass surface of the board. The router jig is also a resin dam to hold the extra resin in place. Put those die cut peel an stick covers on the boxes in case you overfill the hole with resin.

“Also, a couple of my routed holes are very clean, but are tilterd at an angle. Will I still get the preffered cant?”

If the tabs on the box are clicked into the install jig and they are contacting the board’s surface firmly, you’re good to go. If the all the tabs don’t touch the surface go back in there with the router and clean it up.

Then you can try different cant inserts to dial in your ride…

Check out Kensurf’s install pics. Perfect!

Check out the install movie and written instructions here:

http://www.proboxfinsystems.com/pages/installation.html

One extra tip for ya: put masking tape on the surface of the board around the boxes before grinding down the box tabs and resin. Grind that stuff own until you hit the tape, then switch to a lighter grit so you don’t cut into the glass lamination.

~Brian

www.greenlightsurfsupply.com

ok thanks alot for the help. I have watched the installation video many times before I started actually routing the boxes. I guess after watching the video a thousand times I forgot to keep the jigs on because I was doing a quad and all the jigs could not fit on at once. I will stick them back on before I set the boxes in place. Sounds like I have done ok so far, though. Heres a picture of what the routed holes look like.

Yes, the jigs stay on till the resin sets…problem solved.

Hey Snap10,

Did you route the tab slots into the glass too? Looks like it in the pic. I could be wrong… Only the hourglass shape of the box should’ve been routed with the 1/2 inch diameter router bit with bearing collar.

If you did route the tab slots, no worries, just fill them in with a little glass and resin, sand flush, replace your jigs and install the boxes per instructions.

Also, check out Kensurf’s jig pic. Notice how he cut the jigs on an angle to fit 2 boxes in close proximity.

~Brian

www.greenlightsurfsupply.com

thanks everyone, yea i did route the tabs with a dremel tool but I will just fill them in with glass. It seemed like after I routed the tabs the boxes stayed in place better due to the slant of some of my boxes. I am about to install the finboxes, and I will update after they are finished.

Maybe this might be too much for you but if you cut down the jigs where they overlap you can do all 4 fin boxes at the same time. Notice that both jigs are cut so that there is no compromise to the alignment markers.

Guys thanks so much for helping me out. I ended up cutting the jigs with some shears to allow for all 4 jigs to be on the board at once. I decided to just leave the tabs on the boxes because when I patched the tab holes up, the boxes would not sit right because my bottom contours weren’t even. Anyway, the first round of resin dried and I topped it off with a squeeze bottle. On 2 of the boxes 1 corner was high so pooled some resin up and I have to sand it down when it dries. In all, it definately isn’t the cleanest installation, or board for that matter, but in the end I think it turned out pretty good. I will post pictures when the sanding is done.