Hey foamball.
That a great tip…
I do something similar except I don’t use rovings but twist a scrap piece of 4 oz. woven S glass about 18 -20" long x about 2" wide into a rope type of thingy, ,and tack that to the box at one end using a small dab of 5min. epoxy…
After the dab has dried, I finish wrapping the rolled up glass rope thingy fairly tight (but not overly tight) around the box until the other end can be secured with another small dolup of 5min, to hold it and make it easy to handle… This allows you to repeatedly handle the roving wrapped boxes with out worry of it unravelling…
I do this on nights when I want to work on board building , but not enough to get overly involved… So I sit at the table and pre-wrap and stick these on boxes so they’re ready for future use…
I also line the hole with 6oz. s-glass scraps like Ken does above…
All of this is over kill for you guys…No question about it…
But kite boarding inflicts a more prolonged and heaviy load on a fin set … This construction method probably adds very little extra weight for lots of added security… If anything, the more glass filled the cavity is the stronger the joint should be, so really you’re replacing excess resin with excess glass…
I make sure I pre-wet out the wrapped home made rovings with a finger load of epoxy just prior to inserting into the board… And this sticks the glass down to the contours like you mention in your post…
With this much glass in the hole, you don’t want any of it to be left dry…
I also cap my finish- installed pro-boxes with a pretty butterfly patch… But hell, I’m insane so who cares…lol…")
Hey…And if you’re really nuts, you can twist up really long scrap pieces of glass cloth with a corless drill and a clamp, then cut them to length… But that’s strictly left for the seriously deranged…")