Profile router table second board

Hi

Just some photos of the profile table in use and the finished product

Many thanks to Bert and the person who put me on th KRs web page

The system works well I have now done three boards on it unfortunitly

I managed to break the first board on the fifth surf such is life it was good while it lasted . It has now been cut down the middle and is now a set of four book shelves in my son,s bedroom , very good looking shelves I must say

The one in the phots has been surfed more than five times and is still in one piece

It is 6’41/4" 1113/16" 18 11/16" 14 1/4" 2 1/4 epoxy 1 by 5oz bottom 2 by 5 oz deck

The fins are carbon my own to fit in my own fin boxs which allow for a full range from canard to std thruster setup in one neat little box

regards to all Mike

thats pretty good, thats the little ryobi router right? before we used a machine, we had a rocker machine like so but it used a bigger router with a 1 inch bit, that thing was pretty fast.

Hi F1 its a little makita with a 20mm cutter I do both the bottom and the deck with it

Once the blank and templates are set up cutting only takes about 20 mins a side

The last board I did was a 10’6" triple stringer monster mal for the kids and me to ride together It made shaping the bottom of that sucker a snap

Regards Mike

Very interesting. What’s the link to the KR website? Any other pics of the profile/rocker machine.

Hi

The KR web site is at http//groups.msn.com/MyKRSurf/profileplans.msnw

I will post more photos tonight when I get home from work

Mine is pretty simple just made from timber,so far I have done boards from 6’ to 10’6" on it

Once you get the hang of setting up the blank it makes things real easy and you get the shape that you planed not some thing that is a little different because you made a little mistake that has eaten some foam

If you are like me and just make a few boards for your self but like to develop ideas and then see what effects they have its perfect, as what you plan you get

Im sure that the guys out there that shape hundreds of board have the skills to produce consistant results,but I only do maybe five or six a year so I need all the help I can get to keep the results consistant

Regards Mike

ROB I am aware of someone selling a more heavy duty setup thats similar to the one in the photos in your area, if interested ill get you the contact info

Thanks, found the KR site. I’m more interested in self-created set-ups than industrial. I do have an industrial strength router and am looking for more surfboard applications for it.

Thanks,

Hi Here are some more pics of my basic profile table

first shows the basic table with board supports you can see the slots where the templates fit ,I hold the board to the supports with a bit of glue from a hot glue gun on to the stringer

second pic shows a bottom template in the slot

third shot is the deck roll jig for the router

fourth is the bottom jig for the router

fifth is a sanding jig to clean up after the router cutting is finished

This whole system is very cheap but works very very well

regards Mike

more pics

Sab,

Can you post the KR website again I can’t get it to come up. Keep getting error no such site.

Thanks again Mark Scott

Hi Mark

Try http://groups.msn.com/MyKRSurf

dont forget the upper and lower case

any probs go to google and type KR Surf that will get you there

Cheers Mike

I’m not sure I understand how the deck roll jig follows the outline.

Also, do you think that this could be adapted to doing concaves and such on the bottom?

I like it, thanks for sharing.

Hi Vanbokklen

The deck roll camber remains constant through out the length of the deck only because the deck is narrower in the front and back of the board the camber will be lesser

The same would occur if you did a bottom concave you would have more concave at the widest point in the board tapering off as the board got narrower

If I was doing a single concave in the front to mid sections I would first profile the whole bottom to the rocker i wanted at the rails then I would change templates to the rocker for the concave and just run down the stringer from where it fairs in and out of the rail rocker

That would give you the base for the concave the rest of the foam I would do with a flexi small sanding board running fore and aft but with the board at 40 ish degrees to the stringer

I guess using the profiler any thing is possable it just requires a little creative thinking

The key I think is to use it to establish the limits of what design you shape to then twick the bits inbetween as you would normally

That way there should never be any reason why you cant end up with exactly what you designed

regards Mike