I liked the below quote in an old surfers journal article i was re-reading from a few years ago. I had sold my longboard a while ago to pay off a credit card, so i shaped a 7’3 x 22’ x 18’nose x 15 x 3. It catches waves as and glides as easily as a 9’ longboard. but the difference is that it carves shortboard style turns and absolutely flies down the line. I surfed it at a semi secret point break on the weekend, 2-4 ft walls. First session was with a single fin, and i have to say that the board was sluggish and really sucked. so i changed to thruster and man the thing took off. It was connecting sections that the other couple of guys out on shortboards were not even getting near. Im just glad that i put fcs plugs in as well as the box or i would have been stuck in retro mode all day. Just goes to show how much difference the type of fins on a surfboard can make. “Good longboarders are quite simply good surfers. And like all good surfers, these longboarders will want to progress. They hope to ride deeper and get more vertical. For this they will need shorter boards. And when they eventually do go short, the masses will once again be compelled to follow”
Isn’t that the truth!