I found this old thread sifting through the archives. From “Mick” on May 18, 2003:
http://www.swaylocks.com/…_string=life;#121769
To which I’ll add the following from Bev Morgan’s story, “More Than My Share”, The Surfers Journal, February- March 2007, Vol.16, No.1:
I clearly remember one day sitting on my board at Manhattan Pier with Bing, Greg, Bob Hogan, Velzy, and Barney Briggs. We were on smooth, glassy water next to the pier, going for the six-footers- all of us getting into the perfect spot and hollering for joy. What a day! Between waves, Velzy pointed up the hill to the morning traffic and all the souls on their way to work. “Look at those suckers, chained to their routine,” he said. “They don’t know what we’ve got,” he went on. “They don’t know this even exists. Morgan, you and the rest of you, never forget this: Don’t just do what everyone says ya gotta do. You don’t have to! Live life the way you want. Figure out how to do it; don’t follow bumper-to-bumper to the work camps.” This became a guide for me, I think, and for the others out that day, too.
