this is a little thing I wrote for an English class…
I thought it might be cool if anyone who wanted to added something to it??
anyways,
The sharpness of early morning, salt encrusted air outside your heated car wouldn’t seem like any decently smart alternative to many ordinary people. Then again, neither are the acute feelings of climbing down a steep grade with bare feet, slimy neoprene, and water cold enough to freeze your blood. Once you recover from the icy cold headaches you are more than wiling to rest where it is calm - where waves don’t break. The view from the ocean is much different than from land. It feels different too. The water freezes those bare feet of yours and your knuckles sting and the folds of your forehead all from salt infusions, which feel like termites when it’s cold. But it’s OK – this isn’t even the best part!
The horizon is your only reference when it comes to distinguishing one wall of energetic water from another. After bouncing to the rhythm of the ocean’s pulse for a while, you spot it - rolling from the distance - getting bigger and bigger with each motion you make to turn yourself around and paddle. And it picks you up. Mother Nature picks you up. And then you pick yourself up. And she drops you. And then you drop.
-Ocean Beach