The clips don’t even do it justice and the surf is still great in the video - most of the sets were pushing double-overhead and completely barreling. Didn’t get any first-person tube shots, but if you were wondering how incredible the surf has been here with this swell we’ve got going on… well, here you go.
I’d tell you where this is, but then I’d have to kill you…
West Maui Mysto from Resurrect-Dead on Vimeo.
west maui Double over head…maybe if you were a squirrl or a cockaroatch. Looks more like waist high at best.
that’s what i was thinking -waist to mybe chest high-at least in that video…
bb30,
Is that the reef slightly north of the Marriot? If so I saw it like that one time a few years back, but on a south swell. .I asked the guys that worked at the Marriot and they said no one ever surfed it?..too sharky. It broke every 30 minutes or so.
Charlie, did you go to the outside reef at your house? Thursday the outer reefs were going off big time. John’s outside reef looked really good. Shark Country had sets with 6-8 + foot faces and that was after it broke on the outside reef.
RH, That spot is the furthest westward point of the south shore in front of the lighthouse. Ko’olina is actually facing west. Not sure where the marriot is at ko’lina but it is about 1 mile southeast of the harbor at ko’olina. It has gotten huge there two years in a row. Last time prior was about 10 year ago. Love the big west swells.
Harry the swell was missing the outer reef behind my house. I could look down towards barber’s point and see it macking down there. I went the the N. Shore wed and thursday and towed. Surfed 3 spots and two that were new to me. Wed it started getting huge at 9am. Every wave we surfed was at least a 30 foot face. Winds junked it out noonish. Thursday was all time with light sw winds. got tubed more than I dodged. like the west better than the more north huge swells. very fortunate to be able to surf it.
Hi Charlie, I bet Thursday was all time. When I got up and looked out from my house Waikiki had a lot of lines coming in. I heard guys were surfing Castles, and I could see the waves coming in there. By the time I got out to Ewa Beach about 1:30pm the south west winds were blowing and the waves were not crisp, kinda crumbling over, but still big and good.
I think that the Gemini is probably a better tow board than a paddling in board. Maybe you could make a smaller one for towing.
Dude… just, wow
You guys are forgetting about perspective distortion created by the ultra-wide-angle gopro lens… Why do you think first-person clips from Jaws look like standard overhead waves on a gopro?
Like I said, the clips don’t do it justice - we didn’t get any of the biggest set waves on video because I’m not too keen on dropping into a double-overhead with a gopro in my mouth and no leash preventing me from loosing it 200yds offshore in ripping currents. All the biggest set wave shots I got of the other surfers were so big that I had to sit on the shoulder do be out of harms way - on ultra-wide angles those ones look like the surfer is a half mile away even though I’m only about 25-30yds away from the pocket… so they got thrown out. You only really capture the true perspective on great days like this if you’re filming from shore or filming from in the pocket (kinda hard when there’s a surfboard leashed to your leg)
When filming from a low perspective with a wide angle, things look larger than they are, and conversely, the opposite is true when filming from a higher perspective - that’s why you always see jaws clips mounted on the board and not with the camera up at head level. Check out this video - the first clip where it isn’t first person at about 00:17 shows a wave over his shoulder that looks to be about head-high… but we all know Peahi doesn’t break at head high… Then, as he gets towards the shoulder at 1:43 the wave looks about shoulder-high - but we all know that’s because he’s riding high on the wave.
Trust me - it was most certainly double-overhead… I went over the falls enough times on set waves to get a real good idea of the size lol - it was literally breaking sunset-style about 30yds before it his us, then reforming, slamming into a shelf and sucking the bottom out of the wave
IMO you should have stopped after your first post where I saw the video and I thought for sure you were being tongue in cheek
quote=shushka420]
You guys are forgetting about perspective distortion created by the ultra-wide-angle gopro lens… Why do you think first-person clips from Jaws look like standard overhead waves on a gopro?
Like I said, the clips don’t do it justice - we didn’t get any of the biggest set waves on video because I’m not too keen on dropping into a double-overhead with a gopro in my mouth and no leash preventing me from loosing it 200yds offshore in ripping currents. All the biggest set wave shots I got of the other surfers were so big that I had to sit on the shoulder do be out of harms way - on ultra-wide angles those ones look like the surfer is a half mile away even though I’m only about 25-30yds away from the pocket… so they got thrown out. You only really capture the true perspective on great days like this if you’re filming from shore or filming from in the pocket (kinda hard when there’s a surfboard leashed to your leg)
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My tow partner sent me this surfline page shot. Twiggy and his two buddies were inside and east of us. We were kicking out at the outer bouy. West swells are amazingly fun. It is photo # 17 of the batch.
go pro shots of the rider are always uninteresting. I thought the first post was tongue in cheek too. I made a bad call on Sat. and got so so surf instead of exellent surf. Bummer. Still some winter in front of us,tho! Mike
How did your new Rawson go ?
Greg
hey sushi: isnt it crowded enough on maui??? jeeeezzz why do you people feel the need to point out these spots that are kinda reclusive ???
hey sushi: isnt it crowded enough on maui??? jeeeezzz why do you people feel the need to point out these spots that are kinda reclusive ???
Hi Greg,
My rawson has not been waxed yet. My tow partner will be gone much of Feb so I get to prone paddle if the conditions are right.
22’ with a 20sec interval and all time winds I use a 5’9" quad with foot straps with a tow partner in town.
Interestingly, twiggy’s board had a very non gunny nose. To me it looked like a big wave long board with a swept nose and round pin. I think I saw a bushman logo and the board he was riding.
Tomorrow I am using my 8’10" and trying to score early before the winds junk it out.
