I just had a local shaper shape me a 9’4" x19 1/2 x 23 1/2 x 16 x 3 1/8 4 1/4 tail rocker and 4 1/4+nose rocker…(I asked for 3 3/4) nose rocker) The board has a 3/8 inch concave thats kinda starts 4+ inches in from the rails and only in front 1/3 of board. Shovel nose. The tail is thinned out and overall very similar to Bing Levitator but has tons of roll in it. Midboard has a little belly/roll. Glassed heavy 10 oz bottom and 8+6+ 4 oz deck patch. The board handles like a dream from anywhere on the board, but the tail is a little too loose. The board also seems very slow. I loose waves quite a bit because it seems to really plow and stall out on the nose even if im set up well. Sometimes it feels like when I set the tail perfectly in the curl, it just gets pulled out the back of the wave and won’t accellerate. It’s super stable to walk up and down. I can only pretty much get cheater 5s on it. With bigger fins it has a really tough time catching waves and drags (9.5 Slick fin). I’m going to have another one made by this shaper and want input on the changes that need to be made to get more speed mostly from the nose. I’m thinking 3 1/4 nose rocker with a 19 1/2 nose but a more pulled in nose from there and less roll in the tail along with 1/4 inch less tail rocker. Maybe less roll midboard too.
Here is a rocker pic
another pic
roll
19-1/2 nose and a 16" tail? Talk about unbalanced!! I’d go for a narrower nose. That will put a more natural curve in the outline and probably improve a lot of what you don’t like, currently.
Plus, I don’t see how a 9.5" fin can cause wave catching difficulty on a board with that much volume? That wide nose probably makes it float like a normal 9’10".
Maybe its the way i ride here on beach breAks as pertaining to the fin. You have to angle your takeoffs and a big fin just seems to cause a lot of drag when you add any angle to your takeoff. Totally different board and catches waves way easier with a 9 inch future performance fin. It has good base and a nice tip. My main issue though is the board is slow in the pocket and stalls on the nose. I havent had hardly any tail slippage either. Ive ridden an in the pink for like 4 waves and a bing bn II for a couple waves when switching boarss in the water with guys and both those boards seemed to just maintain speed and almost accelerate from the nose. Thanks for the input. Im definitely willing to go a different nose design. Am I wrong to think a board with roughly 3 inches of nose rocker should speed it up when on the nose?
This board is also based off a bing levitator template as far as tail width and nose width and the Levitator is known to be a really good noserider. Levitator has a 19 1/2 inch nose and 16 tail
if you like the bing so much - get a bing!
for the one you have i would say narrow the nose (and midpoint) some and flatten the nose rocker (probably need a custom rocker glue up) 16 tail is good but put some hips back there - this one looks really straight in the tail. glass a 10" pivot fin so that the tip of the fin is at tip of tail block. deeper nose concave too and pull concave way out to the rail. homeboys (and girls) on these are eating a ham sandwhich on the nose ha!
I would try a different shaper / marque based on all the negatives attached to this board - cancel your order now. To me there are only a few really outstanding shapers / longboard builders on the EC and they’re all in Melbourne, FL - RC, Steve Forstall and Neilson. Maybe 1 or 2 more. Otherwise buy a Bing otr or order from an old school shaper in CA. Don’t throw away more money on the same thing. PS Austin’s in VaBch have nice look in’ glass jobs, though
Really like the suggestions. Interested in this custom rocker glue up. If I had access to a board that I knew I liked the rocker profile, couldn’t I just somehow copy that. What would be the best way to copy a rocker profile.
I guess you’ve never heard of Roger Beal, then?
East Coast beachbreaks don’t really like that outline. wide nose, 3" + nose rocker, and straight rail line in the tail is your problem. The wide nose/ nose rocker will plow through water in steeper beachbreak and is more designed for a mushy reef or point in southern california.
Love that outline grasshopper posted, but I would definitely consider adding more hip than that, bringing the wide point back back a couple inches, and maybe trimming half an inch from the nose width. In my experience with logs, narrower noses and lots of hip perform better in beachbreaks. You can’t really cheat with a noseride in a flat section but their more responsive on the nose and tail and fit way better in the pocket than this type of outline. This does depend on skill level though.
I would also say more tail rocker and bringing the fin back as far as possible will help with speed on the nose and holding in the pocket.
Hope this helps.
[quote="$1"]
I just had a local shaper shape me a 9'4" x19 1/2 x 23 1/2 x 16 x 3 1/8 4 1/4 tail rocker and 4 1/4+nose rocker....(I asked for 3 3/4) nose rocker) The board has a 3/8 inch concave thats kinda starts 4+ inches in from the rails and only in front 1/3 of board. Shovel nose. The tail is thinned out and overall very similar to Bing Levitator but has tons of roll in it. Midboard has a little belly/roll. Glassed heavy 10 oz bottom and 8+6+ 4 oz deck patch. The board handles like a dream from anywhere on the board, but the tail is a little too loose. The board also seems very slow. I loose waves quite a bit because it seems to really plow and stall out on the nose even if im set up well. Sometimes it feels like when I set the tail perfectly in the curl, it just gets pulled out the back of the wave and won't accellerate. It's super stable to walk up and down. I can only pretty much get cheater 5s on it. With bigger fins it has a really tough time catching waves and drags (9.5 Slick fin). I'm going to have another one made by this shaper and want input on the changes that need to be made to get more speed mostly from the nose. I'm thinking 3 1/4 nose rocker with a 19 1/2 nose but a more pulled in nose from there and less roll in the tail along with 1/4 inch less tail rocker. Maybe less roll midboard too.
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The "East Coast" is a big place! Give or take 2-3 thousand miles......"hey buddy, I've got a board for you".......
For me your board is too wide and too thick...I'm 5'8" and I cannot carry your surfboard. My arms are too short. Why do you need a "deck patch"? An 8 x 6 deck is not good enough?
The answers start with the surfboard you were riding before this post...before you ordered a custom.....we need to compare your old board to the new one...
I'm no expert....I have a 9'3" with too much rocker, it pushes water if not paddling right and it out surfs my other longboards every time.....less nose rocker paddles faster for me....but does not surf better....and one more thing...you said the board handles like a dream but the tail is "loose"...too funny because that's what I want....
I’m loving the advice. Thanks and keep it coming. I really think a few tweaks and the next one could be my perfect noserider.
Chuck ;
I couldn’t help but notice this post and chime in. I don’t know where you live on the EC and the waves in that area but whatever your choice is you have to build the board around you : your size, ability, & (big one here) style -the way you surf.
Its not having a magic named board by a famous shaper its getting a board that works for you in your waves. The quality on that bd looks great in the pic so that guy may be the guy. Pick a shaper who not only surfs well, but surfs different bds so he is plugged into different ways to skin a cat. Also one who has (what I call ) generatiional experiance (10 + years shaping & 20+ yrs surfing) also a guy more focused on what works for you than the latest hot model out by the big named guys. If that worked we would all be riding what Kelly or Joel ride and it would actually work for us–it don’t. Local shapers will know your break (type of waves ) better than anyone but heres the catch find a guy that has matched surfing styles with fuctional shapes for those individuals time and time again. There are many great shapers out there that just plug you onto their latest hot model instead of custom fitting you personally–it helps if the guy has seen you surf. Finally there are no magic numbers or fin sizes --its not one size fits all --its trial and error, learn and grow, finding what works for you!
Just my 2cents worth but then I probably don’t know anything since I don’t live in Bevard County–had to chime in on that .
Chuck ;
I couldn’t help but notice this post and chime in. I don’t know where you live on the EC and the waves in that area but whatever your choice is you have to build the board around you : your size, ability, & (big one here) style -the way you surf.
Its not having a magic named board by a famous shaper its getting a board that works for you in your waves. The quality on that bd looks great in the pic so that guy may be the guy. Pick a shaper who not only surfs well, but surfs different bds so he is plugged into different ways to skin a cat. Also one who has (what I call ) generatiional experiance (10 + years shaping & 20+ yrs surfing) also a guy more focused on what works for you than the latest hot model out by the big named guys. If that worked we would all be riding what Kelly or Joel ride and it would actually work for us–it don’t. Local shapers will know your break (type of waves ) better than anyone but heres the catch find a guy that has matched surfing styles with fuctional shapes for those individuals time and time again. There are many great shapers out there that just plug you onto their latest hot model instead of custom fitting you personally–it helps if the guy has seen you surf. Finally there are no magic numbers or fin sizes --its not one size fits all --its trial and error, learn and grow, finding what works for you!
Just my 2cents worth but then I probably don’t know anything since I don’t live in Bevard County–had to chime in on that .
Haha!!
Jokes aside, you gave the guy excellent advice. I like the bit about “generational experience”. Well put, and very true.
Thanks again for all the advice. I definitely think narrowing the nose to 19 and pulling it in from there is a great idea after having the feel of a big wide trash can nose. That nose along with the rocker felt like it was pushing a bit of water. To be fair. The trash can lid nose was my input from watching Joel Tudor on his moontail and Justin quintal on his RC model. Both boards kinda had a big nose. I also think some increased hips to the board will help also. Any input on the nose rails. I was checking out a few of DT’s noses (RIP) esp the model T and he seemed to keep the rails thicker and kinda round 50/50. No upturns or sharp edges.
