IM GLASSING A BOARD WITH A KEVLAR PATCH ON THE DECK AND I WANNA PUT A LOGO ON TOP OF THE KEVLAR AND THE 4OZ CLOTH I AM DRAPPING ON TOP OF IT. MY QUESTION IS CAN I PUT A LOGO IN BETWEEN CLOTHS LIKE THIS? HOW DO I GO ABOUT DOING IT? ALSO MY LOGO IS BLACK AND WHITE SHOULD I PRINT IT ON RICE PAPER WITH AN INK JET OR LASER PRINTER? AND FOR THE WHITE CAN I SPRAY THE BACK OF THE RICEPAPER WITH ACRYLIC WATERBASED SPRAY PAINT?
ALSO WHEN DOING CUTLAPS WITH SOMETHING LIKE CARBON FIBER AND IMI’M USING EPOXY, DO I WAIT FOR THE EPOXY TO FULLY HARDEN OR WAIT TILL ITSIT’S GUMMY?
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP GUYS AND SORRY ITSIT’S IN ALL CAPS IMI’M DOING THIS FRO
Hello Jordy, rice paper graphic response # … but it’s been a good week so here goes.
Rice paper is pretty simple but everyone has a twist and here’s mine in a nutshell:
First, with the Kevlar, if you’re looking to put it under your finish glass coat, take a little extra time a surface the area where the ghraphic will go with resin to cover the Kevlar fibers because they’ll fuzz if not sealed which will lift the graphic.
As for the graphic, I print mine in reverse with the idea of trapping the ink layer between the board surface and the rice paper. I usually don’t prep the rice paper graphic in any way when using most
epoxies because I seldom see ink bleeding when done this way but don’t
hesitate to try a sample first.
When putting the graphic down, a light resin wipe goes down first in the approximate middle of the graphic location. Once positioned, any extra resin is worked from the middle of the graphic to the edge. Once down, the graphic is then wetted from the top side to fully clarify the work. Since the ink is trapped under the paper you can smooth the graphic with a little extra oomph. When curred, lightly sand the edge of the graphic down to remove the ridge at the edges and smooth the surface. Now when your final coats go down there’s no struggle - it’s just a glass job.
Have an excellent weekend all. The weather looks good for the weekend and new material beckons.
THANKS BRIAN FOR YOUR HELP. DOES ANYONE KNOW ABOUT CUTLAPS AND WHEN TO START THE BLADE AGAINST THE TAPED EDGE? DO YOU DO IT WHEN ITSIT’S CURED OR GUMMY?
Jordy, if you want a logo over the kevlar, do as Brian says above, but lay a piece of 4 oz cloth over the top of that just a little bigger than your lam. Hot coat everything, and sand as usual.
Cutlaps with kevlar are tough, but doable. You've got to time it just right. Too soon, and your razor blade will skip across it and not cut it, too late, and you can't cut it at all with a blade. Just let the resin set up to a fairly firm set and trim it then. You might want to wet out a piece of it on another piece of foam to test its "readiness" to trimming as your resin kicks.
QUIT USING CAPS!!!...It's like you are yelling at us.
One tidbit of advice. I don't know how many boards you have glassed but I'm assuming you are pretty new to the game. Here it goes: Make sure you flood the lam pretty good with carbon, and make sure you hot coat is a good full filled coat. Why? Because air pins in carbon or any other dark color lay up...with a lett than tight hot coat will looks like some one sprinkled flour on your finished coat.
This is especially true for epoxy, people work epoxy extra hard trying to get it mixed, up, then they chase it all over the board and get it all frothy....thinking it acts like poly resin. So make sure you don't have too many micro bubbles in you hot coat. One way is to hit the board with a heat gun after you lay the hotcoat down. But keep it moving or you will heat the foam too much and get yer self a little delam going. Or you might smoke da resin and make a little weird spot.
Hey guys sorry about the CAPS im sending these messages from my phone and its making me Caps lock type which is super annoying for you and myself. Thanks for all your help guys. Yea im def new to the whole glassing thing. Question, what about doing cutlaps on normal fiberglass cloth. Do you wait till the resin has hardEned or tacky. And if tacky do you flip the board to cut? Wont this kind of mess up the lam coat? Also I’ve played around with Kevlar and I wouldn’t dare doing a cutlap with the stuff idI’d probably turn it into CARPET (yelling) in no time haha. I’m just doing a simple deck patch. I just wanna do some twin fins with resin swirls and wanna get the cutlap down Before I dive in. This kevlarboard I’m working oN is a parabolic high performance board.
Hey cut the laps when the resin is hard but not rock hard. If you cut it too soon it won't get a clean zipper cut. Wait too long and it will be like trying to cut carbon fiber....with resin.
You can flip the board when it's still tacky, but not gooey or sticky. Just use wax paper when you grab the rails. Some guys use plastic wrap. I'm a wax paper guy.
Then put some wax paper down on your stand so it doesn't stick. But if the resin is too soft, you will get dimples in the lam. That's why I say wait till it's kicked green, but not rock hard
RESINHEAD!!! You are wise beyond your years. I’ll post a pic of the board in about a week when it’s all said and done. Pray I dont screw up Kevlar is pricey.
I recently tried out a kevlar tail patch. Not sure if you are trying the same way ( sounds like your wrapping the kevlar over rails). I did a cutlap on bottom, then cut the patch about an inch too big all around. Taped off the glass where the kevlar over lapped. When the time was right, just peeled the tape back towards the patch and ran the blade right on top of the bottom lap. I did this as a separate step , then glassed over it. Was actually easier than expected.
If the patch doesn’t hang over enough its harder to get a clean cut, the weave starts to separate, too much and you waste some material. Have some fresh razor blades and patience. Also, leave room in the tail if you plan on putting in a leash plug. Otherwise glass on.
If you printed the lamination yourself it may not show very clearly over the kevlar. All black may work though.
Pico that looks sick man! I’m not going to wrap the rails. The board is a 5’11 Parabolic stringered board where the stringers in the tail end 8 inches from the tail block allowing for the tail to flex, similar to the New Lost boards but on my design the stringers meet at the nose so there Is no worry of breaking the nose off. I think it could be the best thing since the lightsaber was invented… Anyway I’m goin to cut the kevlarKevlar to the stringerlines as best as iI can. I would cutlap like PICO suggested but it kinda scares me to cut the kev with a couple razors. I think I can get the kev close enough to the stringers anyway and I don’t wanna do Pinlines. I’m also making my own fins which is super fun!