Hey Guys,
Just about to glue up my alaia blank that is made of cedar.
It dawned on my that wood glue isn’t going to work. I’m sure it would deteriorate over time.
Does anyone know a proper glue to use? This is just getting linseed-oiled, not glassed. Maybe an epoxy?
Thanks all!
Any of the urethane glues would work. Gorilla glue comes to mind. Dampen the wood, spread the glue and clamp.Let it cure 3-4 haours. Over night would be better.
not glassing it
then epoxy
tite bond three
if you want waterproof glue
a rundown on marine use of different glues on the wooden boat forum here
Weldwood plastic cement
comes in a powder form add water dries waterproof and inexpensive
we used to use it for waterskis
excellent. thanks guys.
Ken,
If you’re referring to Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue…it is very temperature sensitive. Temps below 70 degrees during setting and it won’t cure…
Almost used it in a 55 deg. shop for a stringer…called Weldwood and did a test…didn’t work. Needs 70 plus to start chemical reaction.
Pete
please report on final choice and results.
I’m about to start a basswood alaia and am considering Titebond III
since it is explicitly water proof.
I’m pretty sure that’s what Jon Wegener said he was using.
Gorilla glue - No Way!
Plastic resin glue- nope!
Tite Bond III -don’t think so!
I would without a doubt and without hesitation run over to my glue pumps and mix up my most trusted epoxy ! Aloha Wood_Ogre
Well, I ended up using Elmer’s Ultimate glue. Basing my decision on the fact that it is 100% waterproof. I guess we will see how it turned out.
If anyone is actually interested, I’ll keep posting photos on here of the process of it being built. I’m the director, balsa master George Robinson is the craftsman.
please keep posting
I’m rooting for you, but I’ve heard bad things about tongue and groove.
what are you planning to do with your rails and bottom?
I’ve been molesting a few alaias around here and I’ve seen hard rails, soft
down rails…flat bottoms, concaves and vees.
there doesn’t seem to be too much public discourse on the pros and cons
of the different design elements.
mikeyshreds
if it goes in the water (epoxy)
if its furniture (titebond)
darker than dark
I guess I should have used epoxy. The only way to see if I blew it is to try it.
As far as the tongue and groove goes, Tom Wegener does it to his, so I figured I should do it to mine.
The board is getting a domed deck, 3/8 double concave and slight chimed rail.
It’s going to be a 6’6" x 17 1/2
This kid Harrison really inspired me to get one of my own. You should see the junk he’s doing on a 5’10"
See for your self: www.highseasfilm.com
Few more pictures over the last few days…
It’s coming along.
I’m new to this forum and late to this thread.
That said, for others attempting this process, I would recommend West System epoxy. Boat epoxy. Sold at west marine or similar shops. I’ve had the polyurethane glues fail on glue ups with exotics, i realize this is not an exotic so the glue should stick OK. Just seems like a lot of work to use anything but the BEST adhesive available.
My background is building hardwood staircases and noticed something in the glue up that might be missed by someone attempting this without a background in wood work. Alternating between above and below on your bar clamp placement has a surprising effect on ‘crowning’ of the entire glue up. I realize most (and maybe all) of you knew that, but if that tip could help one person it was worth typing.
I have a planer coming in the next several days and will be scouring these pages for tips and tricks to get my first board (regular old foam) to come out well.
Carry on and nice work.
JP
Aloha Mikey,
I agree with wood ogre. Epoxy is the choice for marine projects. You don’t want to over clamp, just use good milling and jointing.
Gorilla glue and others of the type (most notably Elmers Ultimate) is at the bottom of most all of my glue lists. Despite it’s marketing hype, it is not strong. This has been backed up by my personal tests, by many others, and a few issues back Fine Woodworking Magazine did an extensive study and comparison of glues where gorilla type glues did not rank highly in stress tests. I would not use it for any fine furniture or exterior usages. Gorilla does have a new glue that leaves a clear glue line (an advantage?). The one and only use I have for “gorilla type” glues is for gluing wood stringers in foam blanks, but again, use good jointing and clamping.
Titebond is a superior glue. I have used it for over 35 years and I have never once had a glue failure. I have a client in Colorado who is still using a rocking chair (joints take huge stress in such a chair) I built using Titebond in 1976 which is still in use daily. Titebond II is my usual go-to glue. The Titebond III is “waterproof” and a good go-to choice for outdoor furniture or any project not necessarily submersed in water. Titebond III leaves a darker greenish color glue line, so you don’t want to use it where glue lines show on light woods (if you care about the look).
Summary: As others have stated, go with epoxy for any marine project. A surfboard with an oil finish is a prime candidate for epoxy. Any other glue will make it a prime candidate for coming…well, unglued.
Just wanted to throw this out there for those who contemplate glues for various projects. Hope it helps.
Enjoy the ride,
Richard
I used epoxy on mine.
Had too many bad experiences with “gorilla” type glues and won’t use them.
Aloha uncle,
Looks like you did a great job, looks nice. What are your dimensions?
So as not to hijack this thread I’ll start another, about the board, since I just finished it.