Quadraxial Glassed board - pics anyone?

I am considering using quadaxial glass to glass the deck of a board I am making. Never used it before, never even seen it before (it’s in the post to me now). If anyone has any pics of a clear board they laminated with this stuff, I would love to see a pic so I know what it will look like (I was told it has a distinctive look to it)

Look at my boards in the other post, all deck of my boards use multiaxial Stitch Glass for long time except wood ones. 

Thanks but which post do you mean?


Thanks. I was hoping for a pic of a clear lam with it to see how it looks on the foam, if anyone has one?

look page 151 of the same post, i put a white one with black rails. deck is multiaxial glass. but my process is not so “classic” nowadays. if you use stitch glass from seabase, in clear lam you will not see a big difference, only thin white stitch when you look close. i use heavier multiaxial marine grade not clear sizing so greenish finish but i use foaming white epoxy in my process too so for white boards i had white tint. One key with stitch glass is to take time to well press it on blank and squeegee out excess resin or it can take lot of resin. you can paint some resin on blank first before laying fiber, it help a bit.

Excellent thanks lemat. I love the channels on that board, that’s one of the things I want to try next. The closest I have come to that is a bonzer I made which turned out great, but rounded channels instead of sharper ones, that board looks sexy. How did you do the black rails, paint, carbon?

paint (posca + acrylic with foam roller) under last layer.

Someone else told me about mixing water based paint with “acrylic”. I don’t really understand this, is it essential or just improves results? Not sure what “acrylic” is on its own, I have seen and used acrylic paints but not sure how you get acrylic on its own?

Acrylic will thin water based paints.  You can sometimes buy Acrylic at Art Stores.  But the average “Tile and Floor Sealer” will do the same and is 100% Acrylic in most cases.  It is a milky looking product that dries clear.  Can be used to seal a sanded finish board.  In the U.S. I buy Behr Floor and Tile Sealer in Satin and use it for all of the above.  AKA   “Secret Sauce”

Excellent thanks! "AKA Secret Sauce" is now "AKA Formerly Secret Sauce" :0-D
Now you explained it, I actually have some Speedcote (Seabase finisher). That sounds like it's the same thing so I will check and could use that.
I am still not 100% sure about WHY use it though. Sorry for my ignorance, but if a paint is water based, surely you can thin it with water? Why use acrylic? I know there must be a good reason, just not sure what it is. Could you use pure water based paint (I have just bought some tempera type art paint from art shop) and glass over, or does it need the acrylic for bonding reasons?

As polyester or epoxy or polyurethane, acrylic is a resin that come from liquid to solid by polymérisation reaction. i use one that’s a two component, base is thick liquid and reactive is a powder, mix give a runny past that solidify, can be thin with water for working it then as water dry it solidify. i think water stop réaction polymérisation of acrylic, so water work as a thinner that’s use to keep resin in liquid stage. Seabase speedcoat is same thing as mcding sauce, it’s an acrylic varnish, more or less a paint without pigments= resin in water. Water go out while drying, resin stay, it’s dry weight material left. more resin=more glue=thicker coat.

Thanks that helped me understand what it is. Could you use water based paint under resin without acrylic? Why do people add acrylic to water based paint (poster paint for example). Is it just for thicker consistency, or to help the paint bond with resin going over the top, or… ?

Thanks again, learning slowly!

yes you could if paint is well dry. with polyester resin sometimes need to fix paint with a true acrylic varnish. you can add acrylic in paint to increase resin content of paint so more dry material at end, better adhesion of paint on support not really needed with lam over even more if you take care to do a thin layer so you need a pigment rich paint. Posca is a pigment rich good acrylic thin flat paint, exactly what you need, i find same in tubes brand marabou at artist store. 

Excellent info thanks.

I have tried glassing inlay on deck twice and had to tear it off before cured, one frigging black dot and it smudges all over deck. That was second time and last time I try that! Now I need to seal the black paint on rails. I think thin lam resin is the way (masked inside rails).

Thanks again

Howzit helter,

With regard to the acrylic thinner I’ll just add a couple basic things.   Typically, the artist’s acrylic paints that folks use on foam are pretty viscous as packaged, too thick to spray.  They can certainly be thinned with water.  Depending on how much water you use, you could end up really diluting the acrylic binder and end up with very little acrylic resin holding together your color work.  This frankly isn’t a huge deal if you have a gentle hand when glassing over the color.  It’s all going to become part of the lamination anyway. 

If you’re glassing freelaps, there’s a danger of having flecks of color start to come loose as your squeegee comes off the edge of the glass onto bare painted foam.  These can then migrate around and create a mess.  Ask me how I know.  Or if you’re doing cutlaps and have to tape over painted foam, the dried paint needs to have sufficient cohesion and adhesion to not come off when removing your tape.

Since there are some very watery acrylic-based products available on the shelf of the local grocery or hardware store, a lot of people will use this in leu of the water to thin their paint.  Theory being that they’re increasing the acrylic content in their final dry film. 

Howdy NSB. Thanks very much for that.

"Theory being that they’re increasing the acrylic content in their final dry film. " I am still not quite 100% clear on what that content is needed for, is it purely to stop the colour washing away when touched, i.e. it binds the particles of pigment more strongly together?

“Or if you’re doing cutlaps and have to tape over painted foam, the dried paint needs to have sufficient cohesion and adhesion to not come off when removing your tape.” - You really have been round the same block haven’t you!! That’s what’s happening here, friggin nightmare! (https://snag.gy/SdMcYz.jpg)

I have a shaped blank with black sprayed rails (with wrong paint), clear deck where I want to do clear quadaxial inlay (twice done, twice ripped up before cured due to black smudge), and gold inlay bottom (which i managed to do without smearing black somehow, the gold glass helped). It’s back to looking like this now - https://snag.gy/C4OL7p.jpg

I have frigged around with various ideas, no good so far. I tried using Speedcote (acrylic finisher) on a test piece of foam with black sprayed on. I painted a bit of speedcote on it, let it dry, then put some resin over. Ha, thank **** I didn’t try that on the board rails!! It went fricking WHITE as soon as resin touched where the speedcote was!! https://snag.gy/rk6W5f.jpg

Considering the amount of mistakes I have made, I think I have done well to avoid having a trashed blank! I really like the shape so want to make it work if I can. I did even consider solid black carbon fibre deck, so the smearing won’t matter. Or spraying it all black. But he doesn’t want that so that’s out.

Ideas remaining to try are:

UPOL sprayed rails

Resin Painted on rails (masking off deck foam) - but even doing that, it seems to pull the paint from UNDER the edge of the tape!

Lamming clear and accepting the smudges and black marks, then doing colour (grey) in the 4oz layer going over afterwards, but he wants it clear ideally and even if I did do that, I think the black smudges would still show through the grey.

Painting over the black with Liquitex carbon black spray paint (have 2 cans in post already in case I go for that) to cover over the wrong paint.

Votes welcome!



Whatever you end up doing, make sure HE does the sanding… by hand!

Ha ha ha, I promise! I have a sanding block ready, with JM written on in Sharpie to remind me!

I found myself cursing him for his silly fashionable black rails (it’s a carbon fibre thing amongst the kids I think), but really I can only blame myself at this point. If I had used Liquitex spray (acrylic WB) paint (as I always have before, just forgot this time), then this would all be plain sailing. It’s a lovely blank so I refuse to give up on it. This is the trouble with making the occasional board, no flow to it so it’s easy to forget what I did months ago on my last board. I could of course write down a process sheet and laminate it, but then… stupid is as stupid does, ma’am. :slight_smile:

If the kid wants carbon fiber on the rails then just do that.   That’s pretty simple.