Hello to all…
Does a Clark blank need to be sealed before you can use the R&R epoxy on it. Is there benefits and is it a must.
I remember reading something about it on one of the discussion, I have looked for the article but was unable to find it.
Thanks for the help.
I’ve done two boards (and only two boards) with RR epoxy and Clark foam. While I didn’t need to seal anything up, it may have helped, looking back. But as long as you’re okay in the temp and humidity ranges, I think you’ll be fine. Some say epoxy takes a week to cure, so dont sand it before then (… legal disclaimer continues here)
Try it! worst thing that happened on my first was a couple spots that didnt dry, but had it all figured out by my second.
good luck!
Edit: what you may be thinking of is sealing an EPS blank when using poly to glass (?)
Just like polyester, airbrush or not put on the glass and go for it. It is good to have the room, blank and resin nice and warm. Over night or at least for a few hours so everything is warm through and through. Be very careful to measure the resin and hardener correctly and mix very well. Scrape the sides and bottom of your container as you mix. Wet out rice papers just like with polyester. Get the resin out of your container and on the board so that you do not have a large mass of resin in your container which will tend to thicken quickly. You will then have plenty of time to get everthing wet out. The hard plastic (body filler) type of squeegees work better with epoxy. Spread the resin around let it soak in and then drap it out with the squeegee. Use the additive F it works great.
Good luck!
What Dave D said. Epoxy is compatible with most everything. Won’t melt Clark foam (or any other that I’ve tried). Glassed alot of Clark blanks with epoxy and had great results. Just make sure, like Dave said, that your temps are good. You want to be above 60 degrees and optimally in the mid 70’s for epoxy. This is especially important for laps and sanding coats to adhere best. And yes, use Additive F, especially for sealer coats to avoid “fish eyes.”
the biggest thing when using epoxy resin is that its not a spontaneous reaction like poly resin is. you really have to make sure that you stir the crap out of you resin once its mixed. also you have to work epoxy slightly different from poly. epoxy will soak in and requires a lot less squeging. some time soon i am sure g loeher will be on here to tell you everything you ever needed to know wabout epoxy. or you can pm him.
also you have to work epoxy slightly different from poly. epoxy will soak in and requires a lot less squeging.
yeah, i think that’s the biggest thing w/ transitioning from poly to epoxy. unlike poly resin where you push the resin into and through the weave to saturate the cloth, epoxy needs to just soak in on its own. you can’t really push it through the weave, and over-squeegeeing will just push the resin around on top of the cloth and won’t really saturate. now, that’s not to say that you should just pour it on and leave it…but i like to spread a thin coat over the cloth and just let it sit for awhile when i’m working on the laps…then come back and work out the excess.
So from all the posting, I gather that I do not have to seal the Clark blanks.
I hope this is correct.
no you dont need to seal it