‘Clip’ the fin you want to study, save it as a JPEG, drag it into the desktop version of finFoil, and have at it.
And don’t forget to donate some (beer, coffee, bus, wax) money to BlendingCurves.com and Finfoil.io for all their efforts to keep us in templates and software.
Also, check for compatibility/strength between your glue and the finish on the slats. I had a couple fin blanks turn out weaker than expected by edge-glueing old wood with foaming PU.
Picture below is Blending Curves #20 + finFoil, set to be 5 inches deep:
I’ve only made a few, but I think most of the strength will come from the glass, and not from the wood. So I would line the wood up in a way that looks best, and then put enough glass on to give it strength.
When laminating that small of pieces, make sure you bridge the “joint” from the first layer. In other words, to get the width you need, it will take multiple pieces to get a five or six inch base. This may take three or four slats. For second ply, use the pieces to bridge over the joint where the previous layer butted to each other. Like in a brick wall. No joints ever line up to make a weak spot. Also, may as well go full boat and invert the orientation of the growth rings. One has the rings looking like a “U” and the next like an “A”. This will make it more stable and move less. This orientation is done in the side by side version for width AND the plys for thickness. Use epoxy for glue and it will bw bullet proof. Best of luck. Hope this made sense.
Hi sk8ment. I know this is quaint and old fashioned, but your’re welcome to any of my keel templates. It’ll have to be on paper and sent via Yankee Clipper Ship though. PM me an address if you want them. Mike