Great observations Matt. Sounds to me like you were aware of a certain specialness while it was happening, which is a pretty great awareness to have.
For sure one of the major aspects of this time that intrigues me is the relationship with the larger 60s human potential movement. The changes in surfboard building and surfing itself are like a direct application of it.
I’m not for glorifying the past or plain nostalgia in this line of inquiry. Along with the fun and privilige of hearing “history” from those who lived it, I am really curious about open-mindedness and creativity in general. And certainly the “appreciation of the present” that I see in Matt’s writing. Until something better comes along, these are the good old days. Right now. No doubt.
I went from a 9’8" Harbour Cheater to an 8’4 Hobie “Corky Carroll Mini Model” (1968). First time I paddled out on it I kept stepping off the tail.
Next was a big reduction to a 6’9" Morey Pope Sopwith Camel (1969). The most common and popular boards that year were the Weber Ski and G and S Magic. Most were in the 7’2" -7’8" range. All my friends said that my 6’9" was way too short. The following year, damn near everyone I knew was struggling on baords under 6’. We came to our senses eventually and by '73 I had a 6’8". This was after a two year setback with a 5’8" Weber Pig. Worst POS I ever owned.
Well you dropped a good name in “Kenny Tilton”. The real shaper behind the scenes at Jacobs. Some of the best musicians on the West Coast are in Hawaii, but they can’t stay away from the Islands long enough to be “Big Time”
started ou tthe old way-swim, bodysurf, raft then board. tom hale was the main man in ventucky then. my main mentor was mike smith. i recall the day he showed up at our beach with his first “short board” and 8 foot tom hale v-bottom. witnessed a couple wipe outs on his first go out. later on it was my turn. i then understood why …
Hey Greg not sure what this means, or why Surfoils is being called out on this thread? Mattwho and Surfoils bring a lot of stoke to this forum, always sharing something interesting, posting pics, etc.
Ah, I see now, said the blind man to his deaf wife. There is an entire section for fin design in the archives - and no one posts anything since 2012! People share / discuss when they feel inclined, and don’t when they don’t. Forums are funny that way.