Going through Tom TAKAO’s www.theshaperstree.com, I noticed this shot of Claude CODGEN in his shaping room.
I had already heard about people using circular saws for cutting outlines but I had always wondered how the hell this could be done: on any circular saw that I know of, the blade is on the right and the base plate on the left. Safety dictates that the base plate should lie upon the blank (not outside of it) which makes it almost impossible to handle except if you are left-handed…
And suddenly I fall upon this photo:
And here’s the answer: the blade is on the left side of the tool and the base-plate on the right!
Now, the question is: where do you find such tools? This is the very first one that I have ever seen…
I also wonder if such a saw could be slowed down, say with a switch or a transformer:- The biggest thing which freaks me out about the idea of using a circular saw on railbands is the speed.
If you could get a cruisy speed happening and with a stone cutter wheel instead of teeth, I’d be going “Why did’nt I have one of these years ago!!!”
I watched a pro cut out a Clark blank with a circular saw…smooth as butter
Me and my buddy tried to cut an EPS blank down the middle to put in a stringer and the saw kicked up big time. What the heck? The heat from the blade melted the foam and the melted foam stuck to the blade. Big mess ,major gouge in the blank ,some one could have been injured…
I use a skil 7.25 saw. You must be sure not to cut in to the deck of the board so you must angle the bottom of the blade out then use you planer to get the bumps out. Simple and painless,
I believe you are going to find they will not cut eps as well as they do p/u. Hard to beat a jigsaw or right angle hotwire cutter with a template for eps.
I have 2. One that has about a 5" reach and it can do up to almost 6" thick (SUPs) blanks. Had to make another with more reach for when I make perimeter stringer blanks from 24" wide eps. Can’t post pics right now cause my camera died and is at Canon being repaired. The ones I did were very similar to some that were posted on here in the past.
Abrasive blades wont work on eps, melts and sticks. Get a wide toothed, mine has carbide, blade. Cuts FAST AND CLEAN. Tried hotwire cutters too slow and did not like standing over the “fumes”
In Jim Phillips’ shaping dvd he uses a circular saw, but I think he stops short of the ends where the curves are tight. I don’t remember if it was left handed or not, and I don’t think he mentions that issue. Oh, and he uses a big old honking one too.
There is an item called a vortex tube, you can check it out at airtxinternational.com it will cool down normal compressed air by close to 75 F so you end up with air that is below freezing so you can cool off your tool and cut throught just about anything without melting it. It does require a good air compresser, 8 CFM min. and cost around $120 for the smallest one but if you need to cool a tool and keep it dry take a look.