Hey everyone. I was wondering how to make and use these. All of my templates have been on paper and id like to transcribe them to something more durable with out taking up too much space. Also, the flip templates seem that they would be more versitile than just a regular half template. I will be using masonite. In my head I have an idea on how its made. Like a regular half temptate but folded and the other half reversed. Does that make sense? Thanks!
I make mine with the nose on one end, tail on the other, although you don't have to do it that way. Also, the templates should overlap about 4 or 5 inches.
I assume your flip-template is what I think of as swing-template. And by the way I have no idea why I call them swing templates, though you do swing them around when you use them. They are know by other names (obviously.)
The logic should be clear from the diagram. But as surfthis suggested, overlap is definitely an option.
(… I used a USBlank 5' something in the illustration... it was handy.)
kc
John Mellor posted a great illustration of spin templates when they came up a couple years ago. I think that's what you're talking about. ''Folded and reversed'' tells me you're on the right track. kc needs to add one more step to his illustration to get a ''spin''.
I shape in Indian Harbour Beach, pm or em me if you want to come by and see about 50 spins done in thin sheet PVC that only take up about 4'' x 10'' x 4' and sit on my lightshelf.
Thanks Mike -
I was wondering if it would pop up in a search. Same idea as already shown. Here is the diagram again...
What step? I thought surfthis covered the overlap? What did I miss? I was shooting for the basic logic.
Actually, help me with this. Go to Swaylopedia and make an entry describing a spin-template. (Including your recommended materials, etc.) Then email me and I’ll make up some illustrations to go with it “under your instruction”. You’ll be immortalized, and you’ll be helping the dazed and confused too, and we do need help… ok, maybe just me.
… I am serious about the Swaylopedia entry.
kc
Gee John perhaps you might consider making the Swaylopedia entry. If you need any assistance with the illustrations just let me know.
kc
I think you guys have got it covered now, John impressed me with his concise explanation and diagram in his original post.
I appreciate your offer of immortality but I'll have to find another way to earn it.
John,
Perfect diagram. Simple, clear, and accurate.
Spin templates are the way to go. I have kept my key template that are all in Masonite. I only have 4 spin templates.
A Gun, Longboard, Fish, High Performance Shortboard. I have at least 20 more to convert. Half templates made of masonite take to much space in the bay. High Denisty Plastic is strong thin and flexes well for rockered boards. Plus it's a space saver.
I like your illustration.
Continuos improvement!
Good Waves,
SD
Attempting to do a flip template now and I am wondering if it needs to be wider than the center of the stringer. It just does not seem to fit.
Hi alohasurfer...
The width of the spin template isn't as critical as the curve on either side. Once you place your marks at nose, tail and wide point, it's simply a matter of lining up your spin template to fit. If your spin template was designed for specific dimensions it shouldn't be difficult. If it doesn't fit exactly, you have several options including shifting your template fore or aft, shifting your templater inboard or outboard, lining up different segments of your template to fill in the gaps or even change your plotted dimensions.
If you research old school drafting methods, a French Curve was a standard tool for connecting dots to form smooth curves. A spin template (or ANY template) can be used similarly... use it to connect your dots. In a pinch, trash can lids, fin outlines, Tupperware containers, etc can be used to fill in gaps or to design various curves that don't seem available on your spin template.
On a recent fish I did, I traced the leading edge of a longboard single fin to obtain the inside curves of the swallowtail.
haaaaa’’ if that aint sarcasim im not here
if i do that the holy grail swoop on me?
by the way thats a journy mans pattern good example mike and john
cheers huie
Hi john, resourceful answers. I've found that a long 1/8" or 1/4" steel dowel (mine's stainless) is the best for drawing curves. They will flex any way you want and not push off center like a squared edge strip. The squared edge always wants to twist. I prefer a continuous curve in my outlines, the parrallel thing doesn't do it for me. When spinning the temp, I'll draw the nose and tail with rails to a point and then use the dowel to blend from nose to tail. They also work great for creating new temps too.
[img_assist|nid=1051335|title=spin template|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=426|height=640]
Here is a good visual of the spin template idea
Great illustration with the sawed-up board.
After 30 years of making ''flip'' templates, I realized a few years ago that there was a difference between a ''spin'' and a ''flip''. Kirk B gave me a template and I ''spun'' it to do the nose and tail on one side of a board. I definitely had a ''wtf?'' moment. The way my templates are done, I ''flip'' to do nose and tail on one side. The tail and nose tips are on one end of a ''spin'', opposite ends on a ''flip''. So all my templates I thought were ''spins'' were actually ''flips''. LOL.
Make the entry... what's the problem?
kc