JC talks about “opening” and “closing” the elec planer as he moves along the board. What does that mean?
When the guy goes to put the glass on fins in position, does he first dab some resin along the fin base that they don’t show or explain? He just places them on the board and uses that fin cant guide to set them up. Why don’t they fall over? At first I figured the whole bottom was tacky but he lays all that stuff on the board which would stick if it was still setting up.
Thanks!
HH
HH, Opening the plane means deepening the cut by a slight adjustment in the height of the front shoe of the planer. Closing is just the opposite: the two shoes (front and back) get progressively closer to being in line with each other, making for a shallower cut.
I use fin plugs and boxes, not glass-ons, but I think he does apply some tack resin to the bottom of the fins first. Doug
So are you saying you can adjust the depth using the adjustment knob on the fly or by gently lifting the front/rear of the planer. Sorry, still a little confused. It doesn’t look like he is doing anything in the video.
HH,
His planer has a depth adjuster that he’s opening and closing (changing the cut depth as Doug explains above). The type of planer he’s using (Skil 100) makes it pretty easy to change depth as he planing. Bad news, they’re no longer made but you can get a beat up one on e-bay for 500.00.
Your typical planer that is sold in store today is not as easy to adjust - but most are still usable. The more professional builders use what is called a “modified” planer. Simply put, you take a new planer (Hitachi preferred it seems) and modified it to adjust more easily/rapidly on the fly. Some places such as Clark foam sell them already modified.
For glass on fins: As Doug said, resin can be used (be sure to use lam resin) or use a glue gun to tack them in place.
Best,
Herb B.
HH,
I too have studied those videos in depth since I started making my boards. They are a great help but they do tend to skip over some stuff. On the planer, when JC says open and close, I believe he is referring to the direction if the blades in relation to his stroke. On a open cut, he is simply moving the planer forward, cutting with the front of the blades. On a closed cut he is sliding the planer backwards or at a slight angle. Notice in the video how he moves the planer backwards alot. I beleive his whole purpose is saying open and close is to show you that he never makes just a straight foward cut, but rather always has his planer at an angle, either moving forwards or backwards.
Also, I beleive I’ve seen alot of your posts on shaping/glassing EPS/epoxy. You have to be
very careful with EPS and moving the planer fast. I use all EPS and I plane very slow and
smooth. So I wouldn’t try to copy what JC is doing in the video.
Hope this helps…
Now it’s all making sense. Thanks for the enlightenment fellas!
The words open and close have to do with the depth of the cut.The lever on a Skil100 is under his hand so you can’t see it.When he says “open” he is cutting deeper.When he says “close” he is reducing the depth of cut.Watch the video again and you will see his wrist pivot slightly as he changes the depth.He also planes “backwards” but that is another controversial story.Beginners have a hard time with this so don’t feel like a fool when you end up using the surform and sanding block.
No, open and close means just that, and any shaper worth his salt, walks both ways, not push and drag