Simple questions will probably get a simple answer. I did my first Quick Kick lamination on a HWS last night. Went great. waited until no longer tacky, flipped and cut the laps. then used a roller to flatten lap lines. Also great!
Flipped board back over and noticed dents in fresh lamination from my racks. I’m sure they will be gone with the filler/hot coat, but would like to avoid in the future. Pics taken before lap was cut
Problem caused by either:
A: not waiting long enough to flip and trim?
B: Pushing down too hard?
C: Both A and B?
Also, not needing to sand laps between lams is something I can get used to
I was thinking the same but realized I would have one less free hand to use during the cut. I’m thinking in the future, a small piece of cutoff foam or a piece of pipe insulation on the racks will distribute pressure better than two hard spots on each stand.
First very cool looking board. Second is this glass on fins??? If not you need to consider pre glass installation on any fin system(some easier than others but all possible).
Third, wood plank lam or solid wood boards don’t need a cut lap. Cut lap totally doable in skilled hands but one mistake you can see the razor cut in the wood like a sore thumb. What is your hurry??? how long did it take to get to the glassing stage??? I suggest from non tinted laminations: Install pre glass fin boxes leash plug if applicable and patch. Glass bottom with tight lam, filler coat(second coat) to include rails just past tacky on first coat for lamination. Baby sit filler sort(second coat) with brush for 20 minutes for drips of filler coat if correct hardener cure time was chosen. Flip when cured, feather lap to deck with soft pad on orbital sander with appropriate grit sand paper based on tidiness of bottom lam/filler. Glass deck then filler coat(this all takes 2-3 hours in an 8 hour day). Day 2, sand smooth and uncap leash plug, fin boxes. Tape off and do a final coat both sides(90 minutes of an 8 hour day). Day three, sand/polish to desire.
sounds complicated? This is a lazy three day total process from start to finish with lots of time to work on other boards or life. Looks as if you are glass on fins and glass leash loop so with that probably the same time frame.
really digging the outline of that board.
Too much pressure. Different way to go, mine is to do sanding epoxy cut lap. Instead of razor cut lap semi cured resin, i sand full cured resin over masking tape doing cut and prep lam in same time.
That´s how I try to prevent rack imprints with cutlaps.
I cover the rack with pipe insulation (and non adhesive baking paper).
Takes no time, solves the issue.
Hey bb. So I did not build the board. I was simply asked to glass it. All glassing has been done per his request. He has marked out fin locations, but despite my suggestions is still planning to install old FCS circle plugs after glass. The board was his first go and came out pretty good, but does very boxy rails and has a lot of filled holes with wood glue and such. It is by no means perfect.
I chose a cutlap so I did not have to sand the mess of freelap. It just feels cleaner to me. I was pretty careful not to make any marks with the razor, but time will tell on that one.
My 8 hour days also mostly consist of working another job, so rarely do I have time to work on boards three consecutive days. That would be awesome.
All he wants me to do is simply glass it epoxy with 4X4oz then filler coat and sand. The rest is up to him to achieve glory or not.
He says he will possibly bring it to Grain to have them do the rest.
BB30, you are saying fill coat the bottom lam before doing the deck side lam? Old habit has me doing both lams before a fill coat. I guess there is nothing wrong with your method. I differ to your greater experience. thx
all the best
Hi Greg, A hand glassed wood skinned or solid wood board I would do as described. Gives you margin of error room to blend lap and don’t be afraid to spend 90 seconds sanding each rail to bottom to prep for deck lamination. Foam only lamination would be with vacuum bag and peel ply technique getting lam and filler all in one pull, one side at a time. Pre glass fin box, leash plug with fiberglass patch install always is a time saver and stronger build in my opinion. Try to do filler (or cheater) coat when initial lamination is just past sticky if possible for actual or imagined superior adhesion to first lam coat. Also I am self taught and always used epoxy resin. Currently green room resin is used the same way with each step of glassing with no need for extra additives. Measure 2:1 resin:hardener. Never used scale. Probably a pro glasses would laugh how I do it but is it most efficient way to build with my shop set up. Prior to my last coat application, the board I have is a water tight, sanded finish looking board that could be surfed.
aloha,
Charlie
