“Surfing often leaves the society of sport and wanders into obsession, therapy or spirituality, which can be powerful, and powerfully good, but also a little strange and confusing…” Matt Warshaw
spirituality maybe, obsession definitely, not good for relationships or career but the only drug that doesn’t lose its effect after years of abuse.
Sport… athletics, an active diversion requiring physical exertion and competition, the occupation of athletes who compete for pay. Art… artistry, prowess, a superior skill that you can learn by study and practice and observation. Recreation… a diversion, an activity that diverts or amuses or stimulates, an activity that refreshes and recreates, activity that renews your health and spirits. Surfing… the riding of waves.
You guys got to talk to my wife of 27 yrs.She will give you a great explanation.Her nickname is Big D and its not because she big.
i don’t know how she does it, nor how Kp got so lucky…
Had pic of egb flex tail ready to go last night and didn’t post, thinking I’d ask one of you guys first. Forgot to delete the link and it was posted above by accident.
John- not quite sure what you need or want to know.I can tell you if you want Kp or I to post a picture, well, we don’t have the equipment or savvy to do so.Other than that, fire away!! ps-did the local tow crew get anything signifacant this weekend???
Matt - Swaylock must have deleted the photo I inadvertently included in the post. Gary Geist from Lucky Lab Brewery took the photo. Re: local tow in crew… we had such a heavy fog you couldn’t tell what was going on out there. I know it was big and that only a couple spots were even close to being ridable. I passed on going out.