i think i was telling you about a spot we found a while back, only 3 or 4 of us guys surf it stand-up, and about 6-8 of the lid riding crew from the beach get some mad barrels too.
this is the best thing about our coast. its so feral and wild, its a crazy little trek to here, no car access, no beach, just huge cliffs and only ever 2-3 of the boys out at a time.
-And always some thick little black pits.
actually wish i had some water shots for yas, its deceptively heavy- i think we have all been rinsed within inches of our lives on many occasions!!
my nice 6’6" that i’m riding here, was reduced to something resembling a picasso-abstract, in this very session.
that spot is west coast all the way bro!! i havent been over to the east in years- lazy, but no need to. we get swell here 365 days a year, and more often than not it is too big, so gotta resort to reforms.
what spots were you surfing in that last swell, i dont know too much about that area, but i like finding out more.
are there many surfers down there? do you make a few boards?
