Does anyone have a surefire way to make rail band?
Does anyone have a surefire way to make rail band? To add to that: How do you account (ie, how do you adjust the bevel mark) for the thickness changes throughout the board?
The rails bands are a portion of the thickness of the blank. The bottom edge of the band is what the flow will look like. If the bottom edge is wavey, the rail will be wavey too. I always put in the bottom bands first, it is the part in contact with the water. It is where the edges are sculpted, roll added,etc. The top bands are for what the thickness will be, blending this into the deck with micro bands. For an example, the tail rail is 3/4" thick, center rail 1 3/4" and nose 1/2" thick. The tail band drops down almost to bottom, unless you are one of the countlees sheep who think a square rail is somehow attractive or hydrodynamic. The center leaves room for the roll up from the bottom and the nose being so thin has a barely visible band. A hundred small passes are better than several large ooop’s. With each pass of the planer you can physially see the rail shape and thickness forming, go slow and go easy. Once the foam is gone there is no putting it back. Jim
The rails bands are a portion of the thickness of the blank. The bottom > edge of the band is what the flow will look like. If the bottom edge is > wavey, the rail will be wavey too. I always put in the bottom bands first, > it is the part in contact with the water. It is where the edges are > sculpted, roll added,etc. The top bands are for what the thickness will > be, blending this into the deck with micro bands. For an example, the tail > rail is 3/4" thick, center rail 1 3/4" and nose 1/2" thick. > The tail band drops down almost to bottom, unless you are one of the > countlees sheep who think a square rail is somehow attractive or > hydrodynamic. The center leaves room for the roll up from the bottom and > the nose being so thin has a barely visible band. A hundred small passes > are better than several large ooop’s. With each pass of the planer you can > physially see the rail shape and thickness forming, go slow and go easy. > Once the foam is gone there is no putting it back. Jim That’s the way guys, Keep in mind that it takes experience to do this whit a planer, and Jim has 40 years under his belt. For myself, I feel more sure with the old surfoarm handwork, so I switch to this halfway. When you start shaping, try the tool from the drawing in the diagram on this site, work from line to line and use as much lines as you like, adjust in the last foot in the tail and nose, take it easy. Good luck. Peter Rijk
adjust in the > last foot in the tail and nose, take it easy. Thanks guys that helps. Peter, when you say to “adjust in the last foot,” I assume that means, when I’m using that tool, to raise my vertical mark and bring my horizontal mark out. Is that correct? I just want to make sure I know how to “adjust” properly, mainly with the deck line. Thanks again, deeb
adjust in the>>> Thanks guys that helps. Peter, when you say to “adjust in the last > foot,” I assume that means, when I’m using that tool, to raise my > vertical mark and bring my horizontal mark out. Is that correct? I just > want to make sure I know how to “adjust” properly, mainly with > the deck line.>>> Thanks again,>>> deeb That is exacly right DEEB. Lots of guys mak the mistake aof keeping the depth of their planers set at a fixed depth, start cutting from tail to nose until the middle of the rail band is correct…just to find out there final product is a very sharp tail rail and nose rail. most of the time this won’t ruin a board. But then again, if it makes it to the water it is always considered a board…
That is exacly right DEEB. Lots of guys mak the mistake aof keeping the > depth of their planers set at a fixed depth, start cutting from tail to > nose until the middle of the rail band is correct…just to find out > there final product is a very sharp tail rail and nose rail. most of the > time this won’t ruin a board. But then again, if it makes it to the water > it is always considered a board… Sorry for the delay in response guys (continental time( 9 h). Yeah, thats what I mean, when you just follow the line in the nose and tail, it wil be to thin or it’s not looking right. Like I mentioned before switch to site work in the nose and tail works best, also after a while you can make your lines shorter, work on your confidence until you don’t need those damn lines anymore. Maybe this happens even before you have 40 years under your belt. Good luck and happy shaping. Peter Rijk.
Sorry for the delay in response guys (continental time( 9 h). Yeah, thats > what I mean, when you just follow the line in the nose and tail, it wil be > to thin or it’s not looking right. Like I mentioned before switch to site > work in the nose and tail works best, also after a while you can make your > lines shorter, work on your confidence until you don’t need those damn > lines anymore. Maybe this happens even before you have 40 years under your > belt. Good luck and happy shaping.>>> Peter Rijk. Thanks Peter. And it is a good thing that for most of the board your nifty tool will work. It is a good thing that more than two thirds of the board is close to the same thickness.
You can put dots at strategic places along the rail, you can draw lines, you can do whatever you want that feels comfortable. After a lot (500+) of boards everything just comes together. It’s more a feel you develop; being familiar with the planer and it’s adjustments. Using the planer properly doesn’t mean taking 1\8 off on every pass, actually taking off a full 1\8 in one pass is rare. Sometimes the planer is set to zero to really clean up your lines. You need to get the feel of varying the cutting depth as you shape as soon as you can. When all of your motions come together in a smooth manner on the blank, it’s like surfing a long point wave where all of your movements flow together. I think it’s the same feeling really. aloha
You can put dots at strategic places along the rail, you can draw lines, > you can do whatever you want that feels comfortable. After a lot (500+) of > boards everything just comes together. It’s more a feel you develop; being > familiar with the planer and it’s adjustments. Using the planer properly > doesn’t mean taking 1\8 off on every pass, actually taking off a full 1\8 > in one pass is rare. Sometimes the planer is set to zero to really clean > up your lines. You need to get the feel of varying the cutting depth as > you shape as soon as you can. When all of your motions come together in a > smooth manner on the blank, it’s like surfing a long point wave where all > of your movements flow together. I think it’s the same feeling really.>>> aloha It just seems there should be a better way, but that is what it looks like when JC shapes…smooth…lots of years and I still get nervous. I do fell better when I take small depths and clean the bands. I just thought there was a secret but I know that even having an angle guide doesn’t solve the problem of depth control. thanks.