I tried searching but couldn’t find what I was looking for. Basically what is the main difference and negative or benefit of say a 50/50 compared to a 60/40 rail. Asking becuase a guy I was surfing with this morning kept telling me that 50/50 is better and that people get 60/40’s when they don’t know what there buying,etc… I’ve mostly always ridden a 60/40 type rail and enjoy it.
Asking becuase a guy I was surfing with this morning kept telling me that 50/50 is better and that people get 60/40’s when they don’t know what there buying,etc… I’ve mostly always ridden a 60/40 type rail and enjoy it.
Sounds to me like that guy is quite narrow minded. Im betting he’s a cruiser trimmer.
Your last comment is correct, and that, is what its all about…
tell that guy “ya like to nose ride eh?” then tell him he’s not riding 50/50’s up there so why do they rule?
to answer your question…its release vs hold/suck and there’s lots more to it than just 50/50 or 60/40…corners/edges play a major role…there’s tons of info on google
i’ve seen that tomwegener site before - and thought the writeups and drawings on rails and bottoms were good.
I noticed however that it said about Knife rails (like pinched rails) that you need a round bottom to control. but why then are most modern shortboard rails which are also a pure release rail, have flat or concave bottom. what do knife rails do that a modern downrail don’t do.
Hey J, hope all is well in your neck of the woods!
I noticed however that it said about Knife rails (like pinched rails) that you need a round bottom to control.
I dont know what he meant by that. I made a 7’6 x 20.5 fun gun that had flat bottom with pinched rails. Came out nice and rides very good. I also owned a funboard (ok it made sense at the time) that had pinched rails with concave. Anything is possible and everything works, to a degree.
but why then are most modern shortboard rails which are also a pure release rail, have flat or concave bottom.
well thats true for the rear half of the board. Thats the subtle point I was trying to make earlier here…the rail geometry varies along the length of the board…so when someone says “only 50/50 rails work” I just gotta laugh…HA! A real small board (chip) requires lift and release for it to work as the rider wants. Bottom line is shorters want maximum speed in avg surf and concaves with a release rail works best. On the North Shore, I wouldnt ride one tho.
what do knife rails do that a modern downrail don’t do.
interesting Q…I stated earier that the rail geo is critical…corners & edges…the shape of the lower half of the rail which is the most critical aspect IMO. Now combine the rail/bottom transitional affects of contour into the equation. Youre into marine stuff right? In motor boats, why do trim tabs work so well? How water flows away from the board has profound affects…lift v suck…speed v control. Cool eh?
favoured rail also depends upon what you want out of your board. my singlefins are all full downrailers, my log (foam tom wegener signature model) is essentially a soft uprailer (especially through the tail), my fish are full soft downrailers, my standard shortboard thruster is a boxy downrail with hard edge, my guns are less boxy downrails with softer edges. it’s all good.
I noticed however that it said about Knife rails (like pinched rails) that you need a round bottom to control.
I dont know what he meant by that. I made a 7’6 x 20.5 fun gun that had flat bottom with pinched rails. Came out nice and rides very good. I also owned a funboard (ok it made sense at the time) that had pinched rails with concave. Anything is possible and everything works, to a degree.
by “knife rails”, i think tom is talking about a more extremely pinched rail. without a more rolled bottom in the tail where the rail gets more extremely pinched out / knifey, it becomes very difficult to release. take a look at the tail end of a Harbour Nineteen and you’ll see it.