rail dip

O.K. I cut out and skinned the bottom of my first blank and I noticed a dip in one rail due, I’m sure,to a wandering the saw cut. I don’t want to get crazy trying to true it up because I may end up over shaping and compounding my error. So, does anyone have any good suggestions on how to true this edge up or at least minimizing it??? I love this forum. Waves were good today!!

Hi Bummer. But it depends. Some shapers just mark that area, shape the rest, and it gets down to almost there automatically. Doesn’t work for me, I just have to slide my template over the depth of the dip, retemplate both sides and recut. I just don’t have the skill to take out lowspots while busy shaping the rest of the board. You?

ALWAYS cut your outline about 1/8th inch outside the line! Then true it up with planer or sureform back to the line. If you can use the template to redraw a nice curve to the bottom of the dip, do both sides and sureform it to the line. If you have a planer you should be using it to true the outline with. Works great. Hindsight is 20/20. Next time leave some room for truing. Hope the dip wasn’t so bad you can’t remedy it! Krokus

The dip isn’t too bad but It is noticeble. The learning curve!! I think I can re-draw the template and true it up. Thanks for the advice. Believe me, every little bit helps.

I thought you wer talkin’ about a new color application method …you know like a G.M. chassis dip …yea just shape and it will go away just dont hit that low spot again like dont look at that tree while you are riding a bike…you’ll hit it …keep it up you are doin’ it… ambrose…If I can do it and all these other guys can do it so can you …an when youre done!!! it will be like no board ever made before…

i made the mistake of trying to get a dip out of a rail once and it made it worse.after discussing this with a friend (who has benn at it for years)I learned it’s best to leave it and as Ambrose said, just keep shaping.

im only 15 boards worth of knowledge, but i just got it feathered in when i trued it up. then shaped the board and was able to pull it all together smoothly. I also just kinda took pressure away from that spot as i passed it and it worked. Key to it all is the 1/8 inch space to the line and then using a plane to true it up. With the plane it will take out the highs and all you have to do it keep it square.

If you leave a dip in the outline it will become a 3D dip in the whole board as you proceed to turn the rails around. This is a crucial, elementary fact of accurate shaping. Don’t bother too much about your original template if you can get a better curve. Best to carefully shave down the high spots with a block to get as true a curve as you can before you attempt to shape your rails. The accuracy of a board is based in your very first saw cut. Give yourself room in future, with your outline a few millimetres from the pencil line. Ihaving sawn out the outline, then take very shallow cuts with your planer with the blank on diagonal in the stands.hit high spots with a coarse block. Try the different shadows attained by switching on only one of your sides of lights. Josh http://www.speedneedle.com.au

me being an amature, my friend suggested it best not worry about dips, but rather get familiar with the tools and the process, then worry about taking any dips out later, as i got more experienced.