Rail Line Tool - Markings / Measurements

Hi Guys,

In reference to Peter Rijk’s ‘Rail Line Tool’, I am wondering if someone can give me an idea of the distance of the two lines marked from the edge of the blank for shaping 60/40 rails.For both the deck and bottom of the board.

Learning lots, every day. (Thanks !)


Edit: OOPS… didnt ask the question correctly…

Also - How about the lines on the edge ?

Board thickness is 2and3/4.

Might have bitten off more than i can chew with this question but your help is appreciated none the less.

Hey PB -

I think I understand your question. In the book “Surfboard Design and Construction” Kinstle has specific deck and rail bevels shown in diagrams but to be honest, I don’t do it that way and don’t know of anyone that does. Someone uploaded the book for viewing but I don’t recall the link.

Once your outline is cut and square, you might make some reference marks along the outside edge as a guide. The tool you mention wouldn’t really work though as the position of the line in reference to the deck or bottom changes as you go from nose to tail. By that I mean the 60/40 ratio is probably going to change along the rail length. It also depends on the thickness of the blank… 60% of 2 3/4" is 1.65" so a mark 1.65" from the top should be close but your blank isn’t going to be square in profile - they already taper the rail thickness somewhat -the measurement should be taken from a straight edge across the stringer. I assume the tail might be something different than 60/40?

The rail tool won’t really work on the deck bevels either. Most rail crowns don’t follow the same distance from the edge. Typically the fat part of the rail is closer to the edge while the nose and tail taper farther in from the edge. If you would like to have a guide for your deck cuts, you might take your outline template and find a section of the curve you like to draw a line or two along the deck. Again, that book provides some nice diagrams for ideas but the deck curves get blended in so exact bevel angles aren’t really necessary in my opinion.

Kinstle typically shows 5-6 cuts with dimensions like 0.5" X 2.3" for one angle but in a video showing Dave Parmenter shaping, he basically just goes to town with the planer and blends it all together with a surform and sanding block… Check out links below. Dave explains step by step and the brief video shows some basics. Hope that helps!



Well I like to take the rail type, say 60/40 and factor that out to a decimal… so that’d be 1.5

Then I multiply that by the thickness, for 2 3/4 you’d have 4.125

Then I raise to the power of the toe-in on the fins, I like 0.1875, that’d give you a total of 1.304"

yea OK, forgive the sarcasm, but unless I’m misinterpreting your post, you’re taking things way too seriously. How wide should your bands be? It’s a matter of preference man. I’m not sure if you’re doing cutlaps, or painting or what, but it’s up to you either way. Obviously you don’t want your cutlaps in the middle of your deck, but anywhere between right on the curve of the rail to 3" in is fine. Some like thick ole bands, others don’t.

Cutlaps have a bit of function, and you don’t want to wrap onto the other side too far… but if you’re just painting… man, that’s cosmetic, do whatever you want. I do about an inch.

Thanks John,

Pretty much on the money… thats a big help

I also realise I was trying to be to definite and need to ‘feel’ it out a little more.



Sorry about the “1.65” (LOL) I just plugged 60% in my calculator and that’s what came out. My point, in a round about way, was to try to NOT be too precise! Take your time, keep it smooth and simple and you’ll be OK.