Its just personal theory that explains to me how my second spoon had an increase in drive even though it is lighter than my first (because in addition to being lighter it is waaay less buoyant), and how a mat gets even faster when you run less and less air, and its extremely light anyway.
its also kind of a comparison to the current acceptance that in surfboards:
lighter is quicker and more responsive, while heavier has more glide and top end but is slow to accelerate/deccelerate
This is true but seems to have come from the status quo of surfing buoyant boards standup.
With a neutrally buoyant craft it’s a strange compromise; you can make it extremely light with good feel (and good response WHEN UP TO SPEED) but with no float it is relatively heavy to the water and seems to have limitless potential in speed from fall line downdrives. Of course the painful compromise then exists of no leg leverage torque and difficulty/impossibilty of vertical lineage.
The thought/theory seems to a bit more deeply explore not only the relationship between you and your board, but your board and the wave as well
It also has a lot to do with styles of surfing as well - lighter standup boards require more manipulation/gyration to generate speed (mostly off of a fin cluster) (skateboard tic-tacs, efficient vertical potential pivots) while heavier glass jobs work better to generate drawn out arc speed off of the rail (a la twins with no toe or single fins) through FALL LINE surfing or a pre-meditated timing and hesitation at the high line before dropping to use that heavier weight for speed gain through gravity down drives down the face.
If you watch the best surfers (Greenough, Curren, Slater) they understand the synthesis of using the highline (the wave) and their own torque (through the board) to achieve speed for freedom in turns/wave makeage.
Of course the BEST surfers such as Curren or Greenough are able to do this with what appears as minimum driver input gyration for the most grace/glass love while surfing, whilst speeding air surf punk rockers are able to pump like maniacs fast yes but look like crazed apes ignorant of hesitation, patience and the smooth highline rail engagement mostly charged up and motivated to perform tricks for the masses to applaud/gawk at as in a circus freakshow, resulting in a corrupt and spiritually detrimental excess reward of money sex and drugs the 3 being easily interchangable.
A simpler explanation/thought would be you would have to glass the hell out of a standard buoyant board (making it 80 pounds?!? I dunno!) to get it to sit in the water while still the same as a 6.5 lb spoon…but try to maneuver/direct a 80 lb board as opposed to a 6.5 lb one…
By the way f anyone who seeks/accepts an excess of money or fame through surfing/surfcraft as the former are unfulfilling and damaging to us all, whilst the pure form of the latter are fulfilling and healing to us all.
Love,
How would you surf alone