i saw the reports, call it double-epic from this floridian’s perspective…which hicks are you referring to?? have fun, eat your wheaties, and try not to rub it in TOO much!>>> I think you could pack about 3 or 4 of those Forida low presures into > what is in the Pacific right now. It got good today. The Texas / Florida > crew would be calling it epic. More on the way. All you hicks stay where > you are.
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! it was so big yesterday,we stood on the cliff at 3 mile and were in awe.The best waves(in town Santa Cruz) were at Swift St. 2 1/2, 3 times overhead,natural Bridges too.The Lane was crazy with tow-ins at 3rd reef.mavs got too big to paddle in late in the morning.i saw a couple rescues in process near dark.Don’t forget to be clear about your limitations, alot of good people risked their lives to save challenged surfers yesterday.god bless the rough water marine rescue volunteers-Danny Cortazzo is a saint.
Yesterday, the Southern San Diego reefs were Hawaiian overhead (with sets double to triple overhead) and thick. However, the swell angle could have been better with most sets closed out from reef to reef. The La Jolla Cove and reefs would’ve been the call, but I didn’t get a chance to go north. rory
palos verdes was going off last couple of days too. smaller than santa cruz and san diego, but lunada had some dbl overhead peaks. today actually surfed 3rd pt. malibu(!) and it was like a wave park just fun little peaks all over. happy thanksgiving, hope you all got some.
Just got back from the islands yesterday. I was on Kauai’s north shore when that swell first hit. 15-20ft near Princeville looked SCARY BIG!!! Just sat there humbled by the sight. Felt no need to prove my manhood. After all, when you see power like that, you realize how insignificant humanity is, even at its best.