Hi, I have a naive question about spackling an EPS blank prior to glassing in order to fill holes/imperfections (as discussed in a previous thread).How much of the spackle needs to be sanded away/or can be kept on? Since the dried up spackle crumbles to dust easily, doesn’t it make the glass job more prone to delamination? Also, does a layer of latex paint over the blank make it more prone to delamination? Thanks and good waves to everyone, Bob
Hi, I build boards out of eps and spackling before glassing. Noodles and Mike D. taught me spackling over eps blank. Try to search the forum, u 'll have lots of idea. I always spackle my board in thin layer and sand off the paste until it get smooth and symmetric. Regards, Crabie
Hey Bob, I use Lighthouse light weight spackle, I get it at a paint store by my house. There have been other brands suggested in the past. Tape off you stringer (I use 1/2" masking tape, trimmed on either side with a razor). The idea behind the spackle is that you are covering up the bead pattern of the blank, as well as any gouges that may come up. In the process you will also be sealing the foam as well. (If you have ever put a fin box, lease plug, or fin plugs in eps you know how it will suck up the resin.) When you get your spackle, take a separate container and mix some distilled water and spackle together. You want to mix to be the consistency of toothpaste (this should enable you to get a good even coat). Don’t put too much water in it (you want toothpaste, not milk). This could lead to delam down the road. I put it on with a bondo squeege (pull the tape up while the spackle is still wet). When it drys take a foam pad and some sandpaper (like 180) and just rub down the dried spackle. All you want to do is smooth out your spackle layer (knocking off the high spots, and lines left by the squeege). If you see thin spots in your spackle layer, just hit the area again with the mix, let dry, and smooth it out again. That’s it. Good Luck.