I need to remove my tailpad to fix my board. What is the best way to re-adhere the tailpad?
ive used super glue…holds just fine but i dont know what would happen if you should want to take it off again
Stuff called “Marine Goop” works well and can be removed. I buy it at K-mart.
Remove the patch using hair dryer heat and a plastic putty knife. Use plain contact cement to bond. Clean both the bottom of the patch and board before bonding. Apply cement to both patch and board (trace outline on board first), allow to dry, re-stick. Take a piece of pipe and roll it down to get the air out. Rub off any excess glue with a rag slighly moistened with paint thinner.
A common or kitchen variety Rolling Pin works well also, as do the little j-roller gizmos they make for installing formica and similar countertop materials. No, not the Rizlas…
Don’t roll to hard, as the material expands/widens some if ya exert enough pressure. And you’ll havve to trim it- which is a pain. Guess how I found that one out. Gentle pressure is the key,
hope that’s of use
doc…
I’ve tried the Goop method, but it always yellows, cracks, and loses bond.
3M makes a spray adhesive that has worked wonderfully for me in the past. Remove the traction pad, clean up the deck of the board, spray the pad with the stuff, put it down on the board and pull it back up (leaves some behind), maybe spray some more on the pad, let it become tacky (on both pad and board), re-stick. Works unreal, better than the original adhesive, IMO.
Yep, I have used the same stuff, 3M sells it as an automotive interior product for stuff like headliners: it may be their #99 spray, though there are others.
I use it like contact cement; mask around the area, give it a good spray coat and do the same to the pad. When it’s barely tacky, set it on there on top of thin strips of something - same method as you’d use for veneering or formica- align as well as you can and then remove the strips one by one and press it firmly together.
hope that’s of use
doc…
Go with the 3M product - I’ve used it and it works great. The Super 77 adhesive is the one I used.
I think Dman is on it… pretty sure it was the #77. I can verify that tomorrow as I have a can of it at work.
BUT I’m glad doc mentioned the #99 as I told a friend about that product but could not recall the number (he has an annoying headliner that falls down on us when it gets hot/humid.
The 3M 90-series (90, 99) are their strongest spray adhesives, and work well at high temperatures (like on car headliners in Death Valley). I’ve used this stuff to glue insulation panels in electronic boxes that went to the Mideast desert. The spray comes in small cans which are over $15.00 here in SoCal. A pint of contact cement is $5.00.
Pete’s right, the contact cement is a helluva sight cheaper. Besides which, you don’t have to spray it, you just brush it or roll it on, which means you don’t have to mask around the area to deal with overspray, etc if you have any skills at all with a brush.
It also does a nice job with wetsuit repairs. Good stuff- I use it for lots of things. For what it’s worth, lately I have been using some water-based contact cement ( 3M Fastbond 30-NF ) , water cleanup of brushes and tools, which was left over from a big countertop job. Nice stuff to work with, less stink/VOCs, and it stuck new surfacing material right on top of lightly sanded old material. Probably do a great job re-sticking a deck pad.
hope that’s of use
doc…
Contact cement the same as rubber cement? I’ve used rubber cement on tail pads and my wet suit knee pads that always seem to peel of from the corners and it works great. Cheap and easy. If you want it to bond really well, put it on the tail pad, let it air dry for about 5 minutes and attach it to your deck.