I want to transfer a deck pad for my pack foot to another board and was wondering what I should use to stick it to the other board? Maybe so type of saltwater proof spray adhesive or epoxy glue that bonds to fiberglass and the pad. Sanding resin?
I am open to all suggestions.
Spray 90 (3M)glue
a quality industral double sticky tape/foam.Herb
DANGER+OPPORTUNITY=CRISIS tm.
Marine goop worked for me.
Marine Goop works really well. It sets fast and makes a strong bond. I was going to get the 3M 90 Spray but it didnt say anything about using it on products that will regularly be in the water and its around $20 a can. The goop was only 5 bucks.
Goop works well and sticks to about everything,but it does brown/yellow,and eventually cracks and loses bond.Especially when exposed to cold and hot conditions.Herb
…If you want a longer lasting glue that’s soft in nature try Marine adhesive 5200,
…or for a hard type setting glue try 495 locktite.Herb
Nothing ventured…Nothing gained.
…If you want a longer lasting glue that’s soft in nature try Marine adhesive 5200.
I work with this stuff on a daily basis and it’s some serious shit. Be sure you’ve thoroughly cleaned the area of wax and wipe it good with some Acetone.
3m super 77 the skimboarders choice for putting down traction, keeps it on there even in the shorebreak all day
The area was cleaned very well. I got all the wax off, wipped it down with aceton, roughed it up a little with 60 grit sandpaper, and wipped with acetone again.
The Marine Adhesive 5200 was at the store, next time I will get some.
How long does it usually take for the Marine Goop to crack and lose its bond? The boards beat up already and gets used at shoreys and shallow reefs.
yep the 3m super 77 works great…but if you want to move it again after that good luck…
The main diff. btwn 77 and 90 is 90 is heat tolerant.
As far as getting pads, etc. off that were applied w/ spray glues: try a heatgun or you trunk in the sun on a hot day that should do it.
Goop will last several months before it breaks down.
…I use it frequently and have found that somethings I use the goop on in weather exposed areas never make it past a year.Now these are things that are constantly outdoors.Herb
Been using plain contact cement for a couple of years with no problems on both personal boards and repairs. Apply to both the patch and the board, allow to dry and stick it down. Rub off the excess with a rag slightly dampened with paint thinner. Caution: This is a one time thing; you’ll destroy the patch trying to remove it. The upside is that it will never peel off. Make sure the board surface is clean and roughed up with 100 grit.
I use contact cement on my homemade pads. I don’t sand the deck to rough it up, but I do make sure it is clean. Also I put a coat on the deck and a coat on the pad, then come back about 15min later and put another coat on the pad. If I just put one coat on the pad, the pad eventually falls off.
The pad surface is porous, so most of the first coat soaks into the pores. With 3m spray adhesive it is the same deal, 2 coats on the pad, but it is more expensive than contact cement and you have to mask off the areas on the board that you don’t want covered with glue.
. you can put to much of that stuff on. with the 3m super 77 it’s just one good coat on the old track pad…the pad will not absorb the 77 because the old factory sticky is still there… never had one come up after super 77 it yet…
PeteC, where do you get the material to make your homemade pads?
Hello Shipman, I use two types: (1) 1/4" Diamond or square pattern for tails from www.northshoreinc.com/deckpadz; (2) 1/16" smooth for front patches/knee pads from www.infinitysurf.com. The northshore stuff has no adhesive, comes in sheet form and in a variety of colors. The Infinity material comes either die-cut (full board patch) or in a two piece size that approximates 1/2 the deck of a LB. It is adhesive coated (transfer film) like most deck pads, but is much stronger. I get the two-piece type and cut into various shapes. I’ve had it on a board for over 5 years without any peeling. Like the earlier discussion in this thread, clean with acetone, rough up the area, clean again. I use one of those rollers for installing linoleum flooring to get it down good. Let me know how this works out for you.
Hey, ever used that clear traction they sell? If so, what’s it like and what sort of material is it made from? And is it really clear or simply cloudy?
My techinical side tells me that pads are probably they way to go (not dealing with wax, saves the board, etc) but from a visually pleasing point of view, I have a hard covering up the whole board with them.
Kind of curious on opinions - are they better?
Best,
HerbB
Anton, the clear stuff is pretty rough. It’s similar to the epoxy grippo spray, but is instead imprinted on a transfer sheet. It is really difficult to apply, and Steve at Infinity recommends to let them do it. It’s really used for only the last 1/4 of the board that doesn’t get much contact.
Herb B, I quit wax back in the 80’s. I started using the old Fletcher products like the grip spray and the tape for many years until I started experimenting with the traction pads that some windsurfers in Maui used instead of foot loops. Other’s have been running parallel with me on this, and there’s a lot of packaged deck pad setups available now. The textured stuff has great traction but is somewhat rough. The smooth stuff needs to be competely saturated to get optimum traction. I never had a delam, dents, etc on my decks since using pads. I also plan my deck colors, logo, pinlines, with these pads in mind so most of my aesthetics/graphics go on the bottom. On a side note, some narrow-minded people see these pads as kook gear, so be forewarned when you show up in the lineup.