I am having problems when using red Acrylic paint on to the foam. When I laminate the colour always runs yellowish!
I have tried different brands but seem to get the same results…could the be that i am not kicking the resin quick enough? or is this common with red paint?
Howzit mason, That's a new one on me. Red is a primary color and shouldn't have any other colors mixed in it. Could be the paint quality, buy some Nova or another good quality paint and do a test first. Aloha,Kokua
precisely what i was thinking…i’ve had problems with red paint running RED, but at the time i was thinning with water…now i strictly use tinted resin for my color work, but if i were to airbrush definitely thin it with Future Acryllic Floor Sealer.
Thanks Kokua, i will try testing some brands out. I have been using water to thin so maybe Future Acrylic Floor Sealer as soulstice suggested would do the job! Any idea how i would get this in the UK?
TM
man i looked everywhere for the future stuff…in the wrong places of course…found it in the grocery store ,well thats easy. i have also switched to a good quality paint, thin with future…i like it alot
I’ve had the same problems with non-primary colors like gray. I had some major repairs on a painted hotcoat gray LB that bled yellow when resin hit it. It even bled yellow when I just used clear Kryron acrylic on it. This is normally caused by the brand of paint and the type of pigments it has in it. It may also be the thinner you’re using. Some colors of even the cheapest stuff are very stable with resin, but other colors of the same brand aren’t. Nova color is the best, and Liquidtex also works good. Use the thinner that Nova color sells for their paint and Future for Liquidtex. Some of the alcohol acrylic thinners don’t work with all acrylic paints, but Future seems to work with everything. The lesson I learned is always test unknown paints with resin first.
Mason, You may have an “off red” with more than just red pigment in the paint. If you look at reds, the intensity of the color varies quite a bit. Some definitely are more in the Orange-Red range, which means they have yellow in them.
I’ll repeat what was said before; stick with the quality paint, and do tests on scrap foam. The tests sometimes seem like a pain to do, but they save lots of headaches and time later. I use Liquitex because it was recommended to me by another shaper, and it has always performed well. Definitely thin with Future Acrylic Floor Finish, and a little distilled water to get the right consistancy for spraying. Doug
I think you are right Doug…I buy my paint direct from Seabase in the UK, its called Chromacryl “warm Red” and now you menton it i can see Orange. My problem is thinning with water not acrylic thinners. I’m not sure if i can get future floor finish thinners in the UK, does anyone know? Thank you for all your advise so far!
TM
Mason, I have used water-based acrylic paints thinned with water only before. The trick is that you should thin it just enough to get it to flow through the gun. I buy water-based acrylic paint in the tube and it’s like paste. I thin it from there so I can get the right consistancy and intensity from the paint. If you do it that way, be sure to stir the paint until you’re really bored with stirring, and strain it through a piece of panty hose to get out the globs. And I always strain it when I pour it into the gun too, just to be sure.
Check some stores where you are to see if they have a floor finish that is acrylic. It’s a common finish here, and I would guess you can get it in the UK. Experiment first with any new product to see if it works. Who knows, you may find the newest greatest thing for the shapers in your area. Doug
Howzit mason, When thinning paint with water the problem is as you thinwith water you decrease the acrylic content of the paint and it becomes unstable as far as adhesion is concerned. This will cause the paint to bleed.Aloha,Kokua
Mason- I sympathize with you. A long time ago, when I was first starting out, I had a board with red stripes get some kind of weird yellow run off during lamination. Really looked like shit. To this day I don’t know what caused it, and it never happened again. But I sure do remember it, to this day… my solution? I stopped using that brand of paint… but I can’t recall what brand it was now. -Carl
That makes sence Kokua…i think maybe i need to re-think.
I will go on search for acrylic thinners/future floor polish.
Thanks for the advice!
TM
It seems you are not alone…I too have bought waterbased paint from seabase…also tried a number of other brands of water based acrylics and I’m having similar problems…some colours are fine when laminating but others streak and discolour like hell…particularly bad on the rail laps…tried all sorts but I’m still struggling with it. I recently talked to a painter who suggested it could be minimised on the lap by going sparingly with the wax in styrene and mixing in minimal catalyst so it’s a slow mix…seems to help a bit but I’m still not convinced…I also have to wait for ages between coats as the water based paint has a ridiculous drying time…have you found/tried any of the acylic floor sealer thinners they all mention over here in the uk???
Cheers
Richard
Mason,
All of the above…
Seal your colour with clear.
Josh
Not to hijack but do any of my fellow Antipodeans know of an Oz/NZ equivalent to this Futures that everyone talks about.I’ve done a search but got zilch from the archives, although I’m sure I remember hearing the question before.
The only possibility i could find in a quick look at the merchant’s yesterday, was Wattyl Speed Satin ( an acrylic floor sealer).
Nuclear…
Thats not a hi-jack at all…perfectly relevant.
I went through a bout of health consciousness at one stage, resigning from full-time production spraying to concentrate on my own orders, and tried to move away from thinners based acrylics for spraying. Water based is tricky to use because it can at times bleed under the tape lines and takes longer to dry.
I went for signwriter quality waterbased paints and found a number of options for sealing both the tapelines prior to colour, and the colour afterwards.
There are a number of water-based clears, but the one I can remember the name of was “BRITEX”…Not sure about your part of the world but I have seen it in “Bristol”, “Paint Spot” and of course signwriters supplies…
The Wattyl stuff is probably very similar to the Americans’ favourite Futures…
Josh